90 The CURSE of Bishop GRGUR

Trip Start Apr 21, 2013
Trip End Aug 28, 2013

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Friday, July 19, 2013

Day 90

19 July 2013

The Curse of Bishop GRGUR NINSKI

Yesterday was the first day that I did not write anything. The day started out well as I had planned to ride to a place called Pag.

Pag is situated on narrow peninsula about 90 km north of Zadar. It would be my last day as it was time to move on.  Two days earlier I had ridden in the same direction and you may recall that I had looked at the small ancient island and town of Nin, at which time I had walked across the bridge and entered the town through the old city gate where just down the street is the statue of GRGUR NINSKI. This man had been a bishop in the town hence they could call the little church a cathedral and claim it to be the smallest cathedral in the world.   I should have paid more respect to the man as he was a fore runner of Martin Luther by opposing the pope and the evils of the Catholic Church. This 9th century hero has statues in various places.

 I wrote about this man suggesting that he may be an ancient policeman ready to throw the book at anyone breaking the rules. Just a bit of fun.


I left mid morning and stopped again a Nin for a short break  and to take a few pictures of the old bridge and small harbour. I took another picture of the statue of Grgur and stroked his big toe just as the locals do. (for good luck, but for me it was already top late)  I have seen this done in many places and the idea is to wish for something or just expect good luck in return.

 Anyway the contact with the toe may have done it, I don't know, but when I arrived back at the motorcycle there was a pool of oil under the final drive next to the back wheel.  I had hoped that it was a loose drain plug, but wasn’t.

I turn back to Zadar to find out if there was a BMW dealer in town who could supply me with a new oil seal, because that was the required part.  I was directed to an Aprilia dealer who contact BMW in Zagreb. The message came through that it would be 4 days before the part would be here. Lucky I could still ride the bike but only very short distances while keeping an eye on the oil level.  The dealer told me that he would find out if there was another way. Last night I received a text to bring the bike in this early morning in order for them to remove the seal and see if they can find a similar seal from a local supplier.

I dropped the bike in at the shop and walked 35 minutes back downhill into Zadar, had a coffee in the town square listening to some performers and decided to not let it get me down but make the most of the  circumstance. I am staying right near the water facing a marina with beaches at either side. They may consist of concrete and pebbles but it will have to do. A hundred meters down the road  is Alison’s Beach,  that will have to be to be the place where I will have to wait. Meanwhile I will also  look at some other options to go somewhere, perhaps by bus. I don’t know yet.

So bad news or bad luck or Grgur had something to do with it. Probable has.  That shows that one should never make fun of a bishop with a name like Grgur
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Suzanna on

Hey Richard,

What a story... Maybe this bisschop, likes you to stay a bit longer to keep him company. And maybe also to relax?
I hope that they can fix up your bike, and I send you a pice of my luck.
Nice to read your stories!

Have fun and enjoy,


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