Jaisalmer and the Rajhastani Desert
Trip Start Feb 04, 2006
13Trip End Apr 01, 2006
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Catching my first Indian train, I wanted to be sure not to miss it. I wanted to be dead sure. So we arranged to arrive an hour early to find our spots and be ready to jump aboard, find our sleeping berths and get a good 9 hour sleep in before awaking for another 3 or 4 hours of desert train ride before our destination. What a lovely way to travel. What actually happened: Train was delayed for 6 hours. We alternated sleeping on the platform in Chris' army bivouac and watching our bags all night
Awaking on a train in the middle of the Indian desert was magical. I went and hung out of the open doors at the side, just like you see in old films but that no insured Western railway would allow without a liability waiver. Sand in my face, wind in my hair, we passed desertmen that work on the railroad and they would let out long hoots at the foreign women hanging out of each of the cars. The land was dead flat and you could see forever and yet not very far at all. It gave the perception of being empty but in fact, occassionally, just when you began to think Im really in the middle of the nowhere now, some man would come walking out of the sand, or a women carrying a pot. I have no idea where they were going to or what they were doing as they're appeared to be nothing, but as I'm beginning to understand in India, there are so many people, that no scape however inhabitable, lacks the shadow of a figure for very long.
Jaisalmer, truly is a magical sandcastle city. A dusky pink fort rising out of the desert surrounded by a small growing town. I'm sure you want to hear all about it but I have to go now as I'm expectedon the roof by our new friend Delboy the hotel owner, for goodbye dinner as I leave tomorrow for Jodphur. I have the most wonderful room. Its up a medieval stone tower at the top, with a small sitting balcony full of pillows that overlooks the busy market below and my own roof top above as well. The doors and shutters are all at least 200 years old and draped over with light yellow gauze. THe room is entirely stone with alcoves for altars and candles and a white mosquito net falls over the bed. It's exquisite, although I am paying the fairly outrageous price of $5 a night. I've been here a week and went on camel safari into the desert for two days, where I experienced the camel mating call which necessitates its own entry to follow.
Oh and poor Chris is down with Delhi belly. So I have to pick up a lassi for him too. I seem to be impervious to indian food. I've been eating like a hog, delicious food, from street vendors and dirty kitchens (the only kind) and no problems at all. I taunt it. Do your worst, bring it on. Ha ha ha, I laugh in the face of food poisoning.