Morro do Sao Paulo

Trip Start Jun 02, 2008
Trip End May 01, 2010

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Flag of Brazil  , State of Bahia,
Monday, October 13, 2008

We take the morning ferry from Salvador to Morro...a 66km trip in a fast Catamaran nick named the "Vomitas" .... 25 minutes in to the journey the first casualty - a tall slender woman throws herself to the side of the boat and heaves, her strikingly handsome partner.. gallantly supports her, his arms embracing her as she continues to wretch and i feel a sudden rush of envy. The sea between Salvador and Sao Paulo is rough and the boat moves fasr through the water..i move to the front to sleep awkwardly, a video plays loudly overhead.

The boat arrives and we finally disembark , a swathe of assisteurs wearing yellow shirts greet us and try to carry our bags. I resist but Giovanni, the Italian who greets us from our Pousada advises me its a 20 minute walk so I hand over my bags which are speedily snatched up and packed into a wheelbarrow...there are no cars on the island, the only mode of transport is walking or by boat, horse or mule.I have to jog to keep up as the impossibly fit Brazilian speeds the barrow down cobbled streets and across the long sand bays of first and second beaches to 3 Praia . Here the access is via a narrow walkway when at high tide the waves crash over small wall so that you have to time entry to the Pousada to miss a drenching. The tiny Pousada has just 5 rooms, two face the ocean,,the tiny balconies are adorned with swinging chairs in a space so small that you hit your knees when you swing ...but despite this the view is awesome, and it feels like you are almost in the water....I love it and i collapse into the bed sucking in the view...

The island is geared to tourists and in some ways its almost too perfect. and pristine day we swim in the tropical waters off the sun drenched beaches, at night we feast in fine restaurants on the beach and in the town, we indulge in exotic fruit Caprinhas like lime, passion fruit and cashew nut ... ..everything is laid out, even the nightly parties are organized, the locals work hard...many of them working two jobs with long hours. But they are easygoing and friendly and i admire them for their Brazilian spirit..their passion for love, music and dance...and we learn to laugh and joke with them and slowly i am at last really unwinding

But for me the best thing about Moro is the nighttime when the skies are lit up with stars so clear and unadulterated ....and you can walk back alone late at night accrross the beaches without the fear or worry of you have in salavdor .. the only danger is that you may get a drenching if you wrongly time your entry to the pousada.... two doors down there seems to be no way in late at night!.

On our last morning we pack everything into our rucksacks...Giovanni puts mine on his back and complains the whole way..."Zoe...vwat 'ave you poot in your Rrrrucksack...?" he asks "why do you no leave your stuff with meee...?" i look at Giovanni and realise there is no point saying i had already suggested that ... somewhere between italian and english the meaning had been matter i smile and hug him. assuring him we'll be back in a couple of days. In fact i was wrong...we wern't to know that the next place we were heading would be even more magical than this and I would change my flights twice so i could stay for 10 days on island some say is like Morro 20 years ago....
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