Finally an Update!!!
Trip Start
Oct 22, 2006
1
16
22
Trip End
Ongoing
Hell-Ville, Nosy Be,
Madagascar
Saturday, June 30, 2007
So, I have finally gotten the chance to rewrite in this travelogue. I know that the pics are always appreciated, but internet is very slow here... This travelogue has definitely evolved since I began it. As has my journey I suppose. What began as a five month sailing adventure turned into my daily life. As I don't see myself as being on a trip anymore, the travelogue has really become a sort of diary which I am not to big on keeping. Instead I will use it as more of a forum for me to express in words some thoughts, experiences and lessons.
I was in Chagos from March to May this year. This was a unique experience in that I was faced with dealing one on one with a beautiful marine environment. Gone were the bus systems and friendly locals of Seychelles, I became lost in a paradise of coconuts; reef, beach, crabs. I breathed truly clean air and bathed in warm clear oceans teaming with every imaginable marine life form. It was a sacred taste of earth untouched, a frontier where Mother Nature dominates. I set all new fishing records, catching the most and biggest fish yet. (Yellow fin Tuna, bonito, Snapper, Wahoo, Sea Trout, Jack, and on and on). I even took up the hobby of spearfishing, with my role as being the shark protector. To clarify just what that means; I follow Tom with the canoe while he spearfish's. I am of course armed and dangerous with a long spear with can be shot by using the thick rubber. I then warn Tom of any sharks that come around by our very technical language of taps and signs. All the action comes in when you have to shove off/chase off aggressive sharks. I got fairly good at determining their behavior patterns (curious, aggressive, territorial, and hunting in packs). We had a few close calls, one involving nearly one dozen frenzied 7 ft. sharks fighting for our speared fish. The close calls really got your heart beating, but luckily I was always the more dangerous adversary... It was challenging in some other ways also, as the American guy that we had with us turned out to be as useless as tits on a bull and total asshole about it too.
Overall the trip was more relaxing than anything. There is something to be said for being on a tropical island with the one you love and knowing that there is nobody else around for miles, that is freedom. An escape from the money system was a lovely consumer detox for me too.
The trip of 1500 miles from Chagos to Madagascar was interrupted by a somewhat surprise stop in a very peculiar little of islands called AgaLega. We were suddenly back in civilization and it turned out to be on an island that could only be described as what Chagos would have been if the ppl weren't kicked out. (All of the inhabitants were booted out by their English colonizers in the late 60's when the rented out the best island to America to turn into a naval base. It is currently "out of bounds" the rest remains an abandoned national marine park.)Agalega was forbidden land to visitors, but in the name of an emergency stop we were allowed there for 3 nights; I have never been so well treated! As the first foreigners there probably ever, we quickly became guests of honor. We were introduced to everyone, dinner guests of the manager of the islands for Mauritius, jammed with the coast guards, drank with the police, and danced all night with the locals at the famous "ball"!!! I could go on, but it was really more indescribable than I am articulate. For my girlfriends, I'll just say this: Imagine a tropical island where there are 4 men for every woman, every night wonderful Indian meals are cooked for you, served with wine, rum and accompanied by live island music. What else do you need ladies??????
We finally said goodbye to our special secret hospitable haven and onto Madagascar. I have always dreamed of Madagascar as being totally exotic and unknown. Since arriving I have discovered much. The land is magical, enchanting and filled with so many treasures that you are forever just exploring... The city is a bit rougher. Not in a dangerous way, but after so much time in the wild, cities have really lost their appeal. I do love the fruit and veggie market though and the convenience of supplies. We have had crew switches, goodbye to Greg=}, Gwen={, hello to Jackie my friend from Canada, Antoine and even a week long visit from Toms parents who will return from the mainland soon. We are currently concentrating on boat maintenance, to prepare to do some chartering. Of course we won't be too busy and take time to explore and play in Madagascar! Me and Jackie have already been out to the local club once, broken a few hearts, and widened a few eyes with our killer style!!!! We even had a little green fairy come aboard ship one night and turned our butter magic! The cookies it made are potent and provoke crazy adventures!
I suppose I will get a little philosophical... I find I get stressed out when I wake up and have a whole day planned out already for me with tasks, chores and work. I am working to make sure that I don't just return to my trained mentality of being numb, super productive and organizing everything. Instead, I stop right away, relax myself first, and then feel what I really want to do. I find that if I just stick to doing that which I really feel like, eventually everything that needs doing will get done. At the end of the day its better to be relaxed and achieved, rather than super productive and just worn. It is important to take every day as it comes and don't preplan your life, but make every decision in the moment so you are doing what you really want!!! I find that if you don't compromise and live your life as a dream come true, you'll never be out of meaningful experiences. That is when you expand your horizons and leave time for magic, excitement and life's wondrous mysteries...
Until next time...
