Ko Phangan,
Thailand
Saturday, December 27, 2008
This is the 3rd time I've been back to BB in the past 2 years. We thought it would be deserted because the waves were really high and no long tail boats were making the trip around the bend. Joeran had told me that last year's resident Thai version of 50 cent had left the beach and the original chilled out vibe had returned. To my horror when we arrived, Fiddy was there to greet us and the bungalows were almost full. Also, they had started to take bookings so I couldn't even get a bungalow on the front row of the ocean even though there were 3 "available" when we arrived. It's a shame when they can't take care of regulars that come back over and over again staying for weeks or even months at a time over some random bookings for 3 nights before a full moon party. They're there to tick off Bottle Beach and a Full Moon Party on their checklist never to return. I wish BB2, especially Ta who apologized profusely well, but I can tell that progress has caught up with this beach and it's time for me to move on. I thought about leaving the next day, but decided to just move to the Other side of the beach and after a couple days Lilia and Joeran came down too when they got booted from their bungalow. This story sort of reminds me of when I was in Rome and I stayed a whole week so that I wouldn't have to return. Forget coins in the Trevi Fountain. Since this will be my last time here, I figure I might as well enjoy the beautiful beach one more time in it's current state so I won't have to return when the resorts and hotels fully take over. The beach itself is still as nice as ever with incredible starry nights and a cool ocean breeze bringing clean fresh air to rejuvenate my poor lungs from China and Joeran's cigarettes. I don't think I've ever spent as much time with anyone that smokes nearly as much as he does, but it's been a fun few weeks nonetheless. I'm glad to have my own bungalow again. It's not exactly on the beach, but at least I can see the ocean from my hammock. I'm awaiting my visa run on Jan 9th so I can get back to an Old School Thai island. Unfortunately when I called Q, she told me that she and her mom are no longer running the bungalows on my 2nd favorite island. I'm not sure what to do when I get back. It just won't be the same without home cooked meals.
Traveler's Tip: If you are not a young naïve whiter than rice English Backpacker that likes to have sex with smelly gangster Thais, skip Bottle Beach 2 and go to Smile where things are still pretty chill and they don't take reservations except from regulars...Yet.
If you still want to go to Bottle Beach, before you follow the LP blindly and go to Chaloklum to catch a long tail boat make sure they are running so you won't have to take a taxi all the way back around the island. The road is much better now and can be accessed even by motorbike although I don't suggest it especially if it's been raining. You won't be able to get up the long steep hill in the wet.
They are planning to tear down BB2 and put up a resort in April 2009.
