GALAPAGOS !!!

Trip Start Jan 04, 2008
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Trip End Apr 08, 2008


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Flag of Ecuador  ,
Friday, March 14, 2008

First day on the Galapagos.  I get this huge rush as I see the islands from the plane...and then after multiple transfers to get to the boat, I meet my boat mates for the week...I like them all...esp my roommate...this is a varied group, in age and in home country.  I'm the only American which is nice for me.  We visit the Charles Darwin Research Station... see lots of tortoises sleeping in the sun.  The little hatchlings are the busiest...there are tons of them and they're bustling around and eating...this place breeds them and then sends then back to their home island.  I walk around Puerto Ayora...I'm going to spend another five days there after my boat experience and I'm glad I chose to.  This is a very cool town, perfect for me...right on the ocean, totally laid back place, tasty looking places to eat, fish brought in on boats, pelicans circling for remains, lots of people hanging out...I'm really looking forward to my time here.  I talk to this guy about doing some diving.  I can get certified in four days...I've only snorkeled, never dived, this seems like a great opportunity...
 
Back to the boat, dinner, conversation....I'm thrilled to be here.  Very happy to have chosen a small boat...it's really intimate...people connect easily.  The tiniest rooms in the world...somehow the cocoon-like feeling and the constant rocking of the boat is making me incredibly sleepy...enough excitement for one day...
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It's day four of my Galapagos adventure.  A recap... The boat is fine...miniscule cabins, but - who needs space inside?  There are two that have windows in them....don't know how they were appropriated but I'm trying hard not to feel irritated about not being in one.  I've got a great rooommate, a young woman from the UK...she's flexible and really a pleasure to be around.  The rest of the people are good folks...quite a variety.  Now about the guide...this old guy who looks like he's morphing into a tortoise....honestly....and his English is poor, and when you're a guide for an English speaking audience, that's kind of important.  He's classed as a Naturalist II, which apparently means that if you have any knowledge of the islands at all and need a job, you're hired.   The beauty of this place can be appreciated without a guide, but a good guide can really enhance any experience...however I think we're on our own here.  Just found out he's leaving tomorrow, on day five, and we're getting a new one...YAYYYYY!
 
So the way this trip works is that you live on the boat and generally travel during the nights to the next island.  You go for hikes to see the wildlife and then you get to snorkel, generally twice a day if you choose.  The snorkeling is my favorite actually.  I mean it's totally cool to see the volcanic landscapes and the seals and sea lions flapping about within inches of you....and then of course, there's the blue footed boobies and the red footed boobies....and a zillion other types of birds.  But snorkeling you get to swim with sea turtles, stingrays, wildly colorful sea stars, fish of colors beyond the imagining, and then there are the seals.  It's very cool - and slightly intimidating - to have them torpedo by you in the water and play around with you, their sleek bodies spinning around, shooting up and down in the water.  They kind of give you a jolt at first cause they're big and they come out of nowhere and are fast.  It's a thrill to be in the water with all this wildlife. 
 
So that's the best part of the experience for me.  And the food is great...I'm eating too much...it seems that when that dinner bell rings, I can't be there fast enough.  And mostly I'm able to hold all my food down...I only had one episode of seasickness...on the second day.  I ate some weird dessert against my better judgment and sure enough, as I rolled about in the shower deep in my below water cabin, the dessert resurfaced.  It was all I could do to wash the soap off and lay down.  But once I lay down, I'm fine...the rocking is actually soothing...and the engine noise that is generated from right below my cabin...  well that's ok too. 
 
In fact, this morning, I was awakened to the smell of burning rubber and then the engine stops.  When a deafening, rumbling noise that you've gotten used to stops, it wakes you up.  I hear an Ay, Yay, Yay! from Bolivar, the theoretical Naturalist II...its before 6 AM...I jump out of bed because if there's going to be an electrical fire, I'm going to be the first in the water.  Well sure enough, everybody is scurrying around...I'm trying to stay out of the way but get some info at the same time.....best I can tell -and my limited Spanish is carrying me here - is that a bunch of fish got jammed into some flywheel of the engine and something burned out.  No need to evacuate ...the crew scurries around...pieces together this and that...we tie up to a nearby boat and they help us out...the whole process is pretty interesting...seeing the crew in action....i'm feeling pretty confident in them at the moment...our day continues as though nothing out of the ordinary happened.   
 
One big thrill today was following these dolphins...I'm hanging out on the deck and all of a sudden, lots of dolphins out a ways.  We drop everything....hop in a small boat and cruise over there....and they're leaping and frolicking in the water surrounding the boat.   And there's this playful seal who thinks s/he is a dolphin frolicking with them...mimicking their leaps and swimming right amongst them....there must have be 20 or 25 of them....again inches away...close enough to touch.  A spontaneous thrill ....

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the flooding north of Guayaquil the flooding north of Guayaquil along the lowlands west of the Andes along the lowlands west of the Andes fields and homes under water for weeks/months? fields and homes under water for weeks/months? stewardess fumigates prior to landing in Galapagos stewardess fumigates prior to landing in Galapagos
first glimpse of the Galapagos islands... first glimpse of the Galapagos islands... scrubby vegetation... scrubby vegetation... sandy shores... sandy shores... the island of Santa Cruz the island of Santa Cruz
pretty excited...about to land... pretty excited...about to land... looks sparse and dry? looks sparse and dry? the airline of Ecuador... the airline of Ecuador... from the airport its a bus/boat/bus to maiinland from the airport its a bus/boat/bus to maiinland
and theres Bolivar....the infamous guide and theres Bolivar....the infamous guide i thought this MUST be the boat waiting for me i thought this MUST be the boat waiting for me Darwin research station..... Darwin research station..... successful tortoise relocation program... successful tortoise relocation program...
big head, no? big head, no? sharing a swim... sharing a swim... in the mud waters... in the mud waters... and now for some iguanas... and now for some iguanas...
you're going to see lots of pictures of these... you're going to see lots of pictures of these... and these creatures.... and these creatures.... cactus tree... cactus tree... baby tortoises... baby tortoises...
each are tagged for their home island... each are tagged for their home island... lunchtime in the baby pen.... lunchtime in the baby pen.... these guys will live for a few hundred yrs... these guys will live for a few hundred yrs... Welcome to the national park... Welcome to the national park...
imagine walking down this to go home late night imagine walking down this to go home late night marketing the man... marketing the man... it gets HOT here!! a dip off the city dock... it gets HOT here!! a dip off the city dock... packing boats from the harbor.... packing boats from the harbor....
inundated by orange crabs... inundated by orange crabs... and a few more reptiles and a few more reptiles these animals seem to be on every island... these animals seem to be on every island... Puerto Ayora Puerto Ayora
symmetry in reproduction.... symmetry in reproduction.... crater holes mid Santa Cruz.... crater holes mid Santa Cruz.... plant life... plant life... wildlife... wildlife...
lava tubes..underground... lava tubes..underground... sitting in the rays of the sun...in a lava tube... sitting in the rays of the sun...in a lava tube... tiny cozy but comfortable cabin...everything fits. tiny cozy but comfortable cabin...everything fits. headed out of Puerto Ayora ... headed out of Puerto Ayora ...
HELLO... HELLO... sneaking up on the wild animals.... sneaking up on the wild animals.... there are more of them than us... there are more of them than us... lovable face... lovable face...
nursing baby... nursing baby... romance among the seals.... romance among the seals.... sneaking up on the wild animals... sneaking up on the wild animals... first new island first new island
avian life.... avian life.... and on the ground.... and on the ground.... there's so many you could trip over  them... there's so many you could trip over them... reptilia... reptilia...
want to touch them so bad... want to touch them so bad... the infamous blue footed boobies.... the infamous blue footed boobies.... check out those feet!!! check out those feet!!! sunset and cactus.... sunset and cactus....
transfer from island to boat.... transfer from island to boat.... waiting for the dinner bell... waiting for the dinner bell... the GOLONDRINA....our trusted vessel.... the GOLONDRINA....our trusted vessel.... bodies... bodies...
everybody came out for the picture... everybody came out for the picture... scratch under here??? scratch under here??? early morning landing in the mist.... early morning landing in the mist.... iguana family.... iguana family....
IguansDon IguansDon Youri deep in conversation Youri deep in conversation a close up... a close up... these marine iguanas are quite colorful... these marine iguanas are quite colorful...
baby booby... baby booby... the side view.. the side view.. learning to flap it's wings.... learning to flap it's wings.... ocean geyser.... ocean geyser....
check out the tailfeathers.... check out the tailfeathers.... lots of character... lots of character... bright eyes... bright eyes... this iguanas got a good life.... this iguanas got a good life....
tracking the wild iguana.... tracking the wild iguana.... well adapted beak.... well adapted beak.... just one step closer.... just one step closer.... volcanic shoreline... volcanic shoreline...
how many iguanas can you count on the rocks? how many iguanas can you count on the rocks? guess who these belong to? guess who these belong to? seaside community.... seaside community.... emergency....let go of it's tail.... emergency....let go of it's tail....
whose egg is this?? whose egg is this?? lots of recent volcanism... lots of recent volcanism... really this is a breathtaking place.... really this is a breathtaking place.... one can never have enough iguana shots.... one can never have enough iguana shots....
and there will be more to come... and there will be more to come... clearly they are one of my favorites... clearly they are one of my favorites... early morning landing on an outer island.... early morning landing on an outer island.... prehistoric.... prehistoric....
the next generation... the next generation...
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galapagoslover
galapagoslover on Jul 26, 2008 at 11:11AM

Red Mangrove Aventura Lodge Puerto Ayora
We decide to stay at Puerto Ayora and pick this lovely small Hotel name Red Mangrove Aventura Lodge, Very confortable and beatiful place to stay righ on the edge of Puerto Ayora, the best view of the town the Only hotel in the main area of town with a deck that you share with sea lions and marine iguanas, we are taking day tours to visit nearby islands

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