Floating on salt...

Trip Start Jan 04, 2008
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Trip End Apr 08, 2008


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Flag of Chile  ,
Sunday, February 17, 2008

But our other attempts to experience and appreciate this seemingly uninhabitable ecosystem are met with success....and more salt.   We join a group of people heading out of town to float on the water of these 5 ponds that miraculously appear on the desert plains.   They are between 30 and 40% salt so no effort at all is required - it's like laying down on a couch. .  And it doesn't require any effort to kick back a few Pisco Sours either...the group becomes friendlier as the Pisco Sours flow...we watch the sunset over the salt flats of Atacama.
 
And as geysers are always a big draw, we venture out on an all day trip to the Tatio geyser field.  This means leaving at 4 in the morning...I'm not sure why....a geyser doesn't know whether its 4 AM or PM....but that's the plan.  And after a long and very bumpy ride out there in the dark, the geysers are awake and steaming and bubbling, each with their own unique personality...and it's well worth the early morning departure.   We're up at 4800 meters in altitude (about 15000 feet)...these are the "highest"geysers in the world, and in fact, at least 3 people are feeling altitude sickness so there must be something to this.   After traveling for a while, you notice that everybody proclaims theirs as the highest, or the driest, or the wettest, or the most beautiful....and on and on....right from the guide books to the locals.  And one gets skeptical regarding these claims.   From my own experience, nothing I've yet seen beats the geysers of Iceland...but that doesn't have to detract from this experience.   We also visit some mud boils which are very cool....no doubt...but I do think they've got some stiff competition from the mud boils of our own Tully, NY. 
 
There's this initiative to tap the power of the geysers...gather up a bit of geothermal for San Pedro...makes sense to me.   But there's conflict between tourism people and energy activists/energy developers.....the most visible community organization is focused on preventing this initiative, the fear being that the power of the geysers will be trapped and diminished....no one will be able to drag tourists out here at 4 AM unless the show is worth it.  Now that's practical, but the most constructive perspective I hear comes from a local businessman..."it will happen (they will tap the geysers), so why don't we just guide the process so that the needs of both interests may be met...they'll retain the beauty of Tatio while developing alternative energy".  Also makes sense....and while we're looking at alt energy, how about intensifying the solar collection in this clear-skied region?  Might make a warm shower more likely...

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desert, desert, desert.....LAKE!!! desert, desert, desert.....LAKE!!! and salt, of course and salt, of course effortless floating... effortless floating... no hands!! no hands!!
5 ponds in the middle of nowhere... 5 ponds in the middle of nowhere... and we are there!!! and we are there!!! 35% salt....it gets caked on the skin.... 35% salt....it gets caked on the skin.... taking a taste of the salt.... taking a taste of the salt....
want some? want some? salt flats forever... salt flats forever... islands of salt.. islands of salt.. amazing there's any life in this thing... amazing there's any life in this thing...
crytals... crytals... in case you havent had enough of the salt.... in case you havent had enough of the salt.... salt islands... salt islands... more... more...
salt... salt... salt encrusted feet.... salt encrusted feet.... next, the freshwater pond....that splash is mine.. next, the freshwater pond....that splash is mine.. see, there i am... see, there i am...
cold water...spring fed...feels like a NY pond.... cold water...spring fed...feels like a NY pond.... back to the salt plains... back to the salt plains... that darn spot again...but check out the salt flat that darn spot again...but check out the salt flat looks like snow, no? looks like snow, no?
evening shadows... evening shadows... guess who these 4 legs belong to... guess who these 4 legs belong to... it's getting windy.... it's getting windy.... salt geometry... salt geometry...
close up... close up... off to the Tatio geysers... off to the Tatio geysers... poof... poof... looks like Iceland a bit.... looks like Iceland a bit....
steaming... steaming... early morning bkfst at the geyser field.... early morning bkfst at the geyser field.... salt and geysers both fascinate me.... salt and geysers both fascinate me.... scientific examination... scientific examination...
like the hat?  i was cold... like the hat? i was cold... spitting it out... spitting it out... fuming.... fuming.... the earth is alive here... the earth is alive here...
explosion... explosion... surrounded b y hot pools.... surrounded b y hot pools.... small but  hot.. small but hot.. minerals... minerals...
feeling the power... feeling the power... a feeble attempt at harnessing the geyser power... a feeble attempt at harnessing the geyser power... what's in there? what's in there? driving the van over this field...an act of trust. driving the van over this field...an act of trust.
the mud boils... the mud boils... pink Tatio fields... pink Tatio fields... a few wild emus??? a few wild emus??? the town of 2 people in the mountains...Machucu the town of 2 people in the mountains...Machucu
main street....its like a ghost town.... main street....its like a ghost town.... with some really cute houses... with some really cute houses... each has a cross on top and a solar collector.. each has a cross on top and a solar collector.. cactus wood for ourhouse walls... cactus wood for ourhouse walls...
lucky one of the 2 people had a barbecue.... lucky one of the 2 people had a barbecue.... a snack of some llama meat....it was sooooo good! a snack of some llama meat....it was sooooo good! back to the desert....cactus mountain.... back to the desert....cactus mountain.... just like Arizona.... just like Arizona....
big old ones... big old ones... making more.... making more.... back to San Pedro.... back to San Pedro.... town gets more lively as the sun sets... town gets more lively as the sun sets...
and it cools down.... and it cools down.... waiting for the bus to leave.... waiting for the bus to leave.... looking for shade under the carabineros.... looking for shade under the carabineros.... my faithful friend....waited til the bus came.... my faithful friend....waited til the bus came....
i wanted to pop him in my suitcase & take him home i wanted to pop him in my suitcase & take him home
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Comments

pagne
pagne on Mar 22, 2008 at 03:53PM

Incredible landviews
I especially enjoyed these pictures... looks like 4 seasons represented in them. Salt that looks like snow! So much salt! Pure water, ponds, mud boils. I never knew tully had such a thing. Would love a tour locally when you return. Remember Salty Sam? I think he was from tully!! And I think he made some people's blood boil... kinda like mud boils.....

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