Feeding the mosquitos...

Trip Start Jan 04, 2008
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Trip End Apr 08, 2008


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Flag of Peru  ,
Wednesday, January 23, 2008

5:30 AM in the boats to look for parrots on the colpa...that's a vertical river bank comprised of clay that the parrots gather on...they ingest the clay and minerals and it protects them from some of the tree toxins they will later ingest.  I guess it's also a place to socialize and depending upon who you meet, you may find a partner to share your life with.  We paddle for awhile, the air is still sort of cool...we move up into a quieter tributary and there they are...hordes of parrots swarming the vertical clay banks.  Toucans are flying nearby...it's quiet and peaceful out here so early in the morning, except for the chatter of the parrots...there must be hundreds of them.  Every once in a while something interrupts their concentration and they fly en masse up into the trees to slowly lower themselves eventually back onto the colpa.  It's tolerably warm out here and I could watch this show forever but then the sun comes out full force.  Enough parrot observation...time to go eat breakfast and then hike out to Sandoval Lake.  There are supposed to be 4 meter long Caimans out there, plus piranhas and electric eels...and we're supposed to be able to swim in a "protected" area...I'm wondering how protected it is.
 
Well the hike to Sandoval Lake was quite an experience.  Frank said it was about 5 KM in...no problem....but I didn't realize it was thru deep argillic mud...the kind that sucks your boots right off of you when you try to pull your feel back out.  So bracing myself with two poles to assist in boot retrieval, I sludge my way thru the mud, but it's a long 5 km.  And of course it's hot and the air is full of humidity.  I'm drenched right from the start...then I'm drenched plus muddy, and full of bug bites...but this lake is supposed to be nice.   And it is.   The minute we get there we jump right into the water....it's not cold, not even particularly cool but it's so welcome....gets the mud and the sweat off of me...cools my core temperature...but I'm a little concerned about two things...a Peruana had told us that there are these parasites in fresh water bodies that enter you thru orifices or fissures in your skin so I'm trying to keep all those possibilities in check.  Secondly, there are still those electric eels that zing you with a 660 V shock and you sink and drown, and then there are the caimans to gobble you up.   Frank points up the lake and says they mostly live over there, not here.  But anyway I swim near Lisa...I figure then there's only a 50% chance I'll be the first.  But once she gets out of the water for lunch, I'm on my way too...that is until the rest of the group swims later.  Since there are about 5 of us in the water, my chances are reduced further and I feel safe. 
 
This lake is beautiful...it's an old stream meander of the Madre de Dios...an oxbow that is rich in wildlife and protected by the gov't...  As we canoe back to resume our hike, we see turtles on the edge of the lake, some very cool birds...Anhingas flapping their broad wings, Hoatzins...who are big orange headed, Mohawk- haired predators...there are clusters of them carrying on at the waters edge...sounds like they're fighting over something.... and Corey, we even see a few Ruby Throated Bunudgers, just like in NY.  We see a sloth...lots of stuff but of course, the best is the swarms of monkeys, capuchin and squirrel monkeys, as we enter the final channel.  Monkeys with babies on them scurrying through the canopy, just tearing it up, crashing canopy leaves and branches to the ground. We spend a little time trying to catch piranhas with homemade fishing gear.  I can feel them bite...I even see one near the surface as I yank my twine out of the water...but they're good at stealing bait...and we don't catch any.  But we're going fishing in a day or two...to try again.  

And then its time for the hike back, which I can hardly imagine...but it's getting dark, the mosquitoes are out full force, so our hike is muy rapido.  I feel like a human trail machine, ignoring the slips and slides and near wipeouts into the sticky mud.   But I hit some slippery slope, my knee twists, my energy reserves are diminished, I slow down a bit.  But then Johann and I begin to walk together and it takes all my concentration to talk about our lives in Spanish, so the trail shortens, we finally arrive...hop in the boat...a breeze dries my skin and soon we're back at camp.  A long day....530 AM to 630 PM...but an incredible one.    I wonder what they've got planned for tomorrow....

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headed upriver to find the parrots on the colpa... headed upriver to find the parrots on the colpa... the birds are awake... the birds are awake... past a fisherman setting his nets... past a fisherman setting his nets... see all the parrots on the clay bank? see all the parrots on the clay bank?
Lola waited at the camp... Lola waited at the camp... so did Pepe...as brillliant as ever... so did Pepe...as brillliant as ever... these sinks are made from the ironwood tree.... these sinks are made from the ironwood tree.... a kitten for our friend from France... a kitten for our friend from France...
Pepe checking in... Pepe checking in... headed out to Monkey Island... headed out to Monkey Island... the water gets deeper...over the boots? the water gets deeper...over the boots? the spirit of the termite nest.. the spirit of the termite nest..
boots go SCHOLCK everytime you pull them out... boots go SCHOLCK everytime you pull them out... retreating back to the boat...the waters too deep. retreating back to the boat...the waters too deep. getting the boat unstuck... getting the boat unstuck... a leaf cutter ant on the trail.... a leaf cutter ant on the trail....
entering Sandoval Lake...a multi NGO effort entering Sandoval Lake...a multi NGO effort walking on water.... walking on water.... beauty in the mud... beauty in the mud... if you can't walk out, these guys will push you... if you can't walk out, these guys will push you...
Frankie and the buttress roots... Frankie and the buttress roots... my double stick effort to get thru the mud... my double stick effort to get thru the mud... rapid decomposition...ants everywhere... rapid decomposition...ants everywhere... halfway there... halfway there...
Carlitos....a high spirited guide.... Carlitos....a high spirited guide.... i like to think of these as parrot nose plants... i like to think of these as parrot nose plants... making my way along the trail... making my way along the trail... we arrived at the lake!!!! greeted by chickens... we arrived at the lake!!!! greeted by chickens...
and a banana leaf lunch... and a banana leaf lunch... a little of everything..eggs, chicken, always rice a little of everything..eggs, chicken, always rice pristine Sandoval Lake... pristine Sandoval Lake... animal climbing tree... animal climbing tree...
Frankie is worn out... Frankie is worn out... only a 1 out of 3 chance for the caimans.... only a 1 out of 3 chance for the caimans.... cooler, well fed...now we got to hike back??? cooler, well fed...now we got to hike back??? fuits high in estrogen..medicinal...men avoid them fuits high in estrogen..medicinal...men avoid them
the only caiman we saw !! the only caiman we saw !! the streak of dark up the tree is a line of bats.. the streak of dark up the tree is a line of bats.. back thru the mud and finally...the boat !!! back thru the mud and finally...the boat !!! and we're back to camp... and we're back to camp...
Pepe and Pedro shake their tailfeathers.... Pepe and Pedro shake their tailfeathers.... ornamental ginger.... ornamental ginger.... and Lola keeps smiling... and Lola keeps smiling...
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Comments

cokoletigre
cokoletigre on Feb 12, 2008 at 03:22PM

!
wow

cck10388
cck10388 on Feb 21, 2008 at 04:41AM

wildlife from NY to you
ya know, its funny cuz i just saw a blue crested bunudger the other day on the way to class. it was perched pretty high, but i swear it was there!! maybe theyre cousins...hahaha xoxox love you tons!!

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