Night in Tell
Trip Start
Jul 10, 2002
1
15
50
Trip End
Aug 30, 2002
Tell,
Palestinian Territory
Thursday, July 25, 2002
Early this morning as agreed yesterday I met with Dr. Ghassan and we drove to his dental office [for he was a dentist as well as physician] where he fixed a tooth that needed attention. He absolutely refused to take any payment for it. It was to show his appreciation for my show of solidarity with his beleagured people. Nevertheless I arranged with Susan who knew his family well, to give her US$40 to buy some computer software for his children which she knew they wanted.
After the dental fix we again set out for Tell though the Dr. did not go this time. On the way there our road was blocked by 2 Israeli tanks and a unit of soldiers. We got out to try to deal with the problem. The usual "This is a closed military zone. Entry is prohibited." It was for our own safety, the officer explained. There was a terrorist free in the woods which the road to Tell bordered. They would be shooting to kill anything that moved in the woods. If we were allowed to pass, we might be mistaken for the terrorist and shot. This gave me another opportunity to talk with some Israeli military. It turned out the Captain in charge of the extra judicial execution squad was actually a medical doctor. He was as fully armed as a combat infrantyman. Helmeted, side arms, M-16, bayonet at the ready. He had spent a number of years in the USA. A number of us had inquiries for him or some of the other Israelis. Trying very hard not to be confrontational really searching for understanding of his psyche, his motivation. I pointed out that a physician is supposed to live by the Hippocratic Oath, to preserve life and first of all 'Noli nocere', to do no harm. He did not seem to see any contradiction between his role as doctor and deadly hunter of humans. He said it was a matter of survival. He professed that all Palestinians wanted to drive the Jews into the sea and seemed convinced of its truth. With this attitude it would seem that any peaceful solution would be impossible.
After some dialogue for perhaps a half hour or more which despite its potential for some nastiness never got out of hand. Once again Susan demonstraed her persuasiveness with a reasonable solution and we were allowed to proceed in the ambulance to Tell.
It had been our understanding that one of the families in Tell was under threat of having their home demolished. And the prescence of ISMers might deter the action. We met some of the villagers as well as the family whose name I think was Farouk. Characteristically they were very hospitable but were embarrassed because very little food was available in the village to feed us. About four or five of us spent the night in their home. They shared what food there was. Our friendly conversation was helped by one ISMer who spoke fairly good Arabic. I particularly remember one handsome young lad who would proudly jump bare back onto his horse. He was quite upset because though he was twenty one, his youthful looks caused him to be treated as a teenager.
Comments
Lucky you
Lucky you Sir of having a night in Tell, I would love to do as well. Although I was born and lived in Jordan I am originally from Tell, my parents were born there.. Palestinians do NOT forget their roots.
I hope you will spread your experience about Tell and Palestine to everyone you know.
Thank you very much about the nice articles.
Ehab Tellawy