Oct 01, 1979
Oct 16, 1979
I realized this and then forced myself to drink and eat. With the relief of the burden of my heavy pack by my porter I soon regained my strength and also hiked my way into better physical condition.
My porter happily agreed to the then going rate of 20 Rupees per day plus food and lodging. At the then current exchange rate 20 Rupees equale US$1.70. Kind of ridiculous but at that time I really couldn't afford to be generous. I did give him a bonus though on reaching Namache Bazaar which was as far as he agreed to go. From there I resumed my solo trek.
In Wahko I finally relented and hired a porter. I had resisted not because of the trivial cost but out of machismo pride. I was strong enough to carry my own pack. But I had finally to admit I felt very weak and was making very poor progress. In fact one local told me I looked so bad I would probably die if I didn't return to Kathmandu. I realized later that the problem was dehydration and lack of nutrition. Because there were no trekking stops along my route I often went an entire day with nothing but some M&Ms and some trail mix. The weather was quite hot and very humid so I sweated a lot. I ritually iodized my drinking water but because my water bottle was in a pocket on my back pack I had to take the pack off to access it, not a simple matter so I would slog on thirsty and hungry. By night I would feel a bit nauseous without appetite.