Jun 05, 2009
Jul 03, 2009
At Bangor we said goodbye to US2 for the last time – it heads back north into Canada – and switched to US3 which took us to Ellsworth and on to Mount Desert Island and the Arcadia National Park. Finally we reached Sand Beach, one of the easternmost points in the park and got our first sight of the Atlantic. To properly complete the coast to coast we had a brief paddle and I threw in the pebble I’d picked out of the Pacific at Beach 4 in the Olympia National Park two weeks ago. Further around the park loop road we got out again at a completely deserted bay called Otter Cove. I'll have to rename it Harry’s Cove because he overcame his fear of going out of his depth and went for his first proper swim.
Our final stretch of US2 took us from Lancaster as far as Bangor today. It wasn't far to the Maine border. The landscape was still wooded but was starting to look a bit more rugged and bleak, the weather was turning greyer too. The Maine state line was very unpretentious– the only one we have crossed that didn’t have a huge welcome sign, and it had started raining. Just inside the Maine border, in the town of Gilead, a sign on a shack caught my eye. We have passed countless of these dilapidated small businesses advertising coffee, bait and camp firewood, but the promise of baked beans made this one slightly unusual. Unfortunately the radical diversification hadn’t paid off and the shop was shut up so we couldn’t investigate further. In a great little coffee shop I chatted to Crystal the barista, who studied in Virginia. She highly recommended Bar Harbor, allaying my fears that it might just be full of cruise ship tourists. In the minuscule town of Carmel, at the Town Creamery, Bill told me how he’d recently moved to the area to get away from the incessant violence and crime of his hometown….Providence, Rhode Island. I shall have to make my own comparisons next week! Redemption seems to be popular around these parts – churches, bottle shops, and, on one sign, llamas & ostriches!