Trekking on Roraima
Trip Start
Jun 09, 2005
1
99
105
Trip End
Jun 08, 2006
Santa Elena,
Venezuela
Saturday, May 20, 2006
When European explorers first came to the area, they pronounced Roraima and many of the other tepuis in the area inpregnable on account of the 500m tall cliffs that surround the summit on every side. The early explorers postulated that the high plateau might harbour ancient forms of life suspended in evolutionary development, which inspired Arthur Conan Doyle's 'The Lost World'.
In the late 1800´s the ornithologist Whitley spotted a sloping ledge which had broken away from the summit forming a ramp that would potentially enable an ascent on foot to the top
01 Start of Roraima trek
. In 1884, this route was first used to gain access to the summit. Accounts of the strange rocky and waterlogged world on the top with its equally unusual flora and fauna inspired other scientific expeditions to the area.First day in Santa Elena
Rachel and I begin our expedition to the summit in the litte Venezuelan town of Santa Elena just a stones throw from the Brazilian border. It seems that there is no shortage of companies offering to take us to the top, but the prices seem to vary widely, and we have heard reports of leaky tents and freezing sleeping bags, so we decide to inspect any kit closely before we sign up for anything.
On our travels here, we bumped into an American chap Ryan, who looks a bit like a younger and slimmer Tom Hanks, and a 28-year old English girl, Janet, from Blackpool. They also want to do a trek to the summit, which is good because as a group of four we will be able to negotiate a better deal.
We chat to a slick-haired chap called Francisco, who hangs around the main backpacker hotel in town, Posada Michelle
02 First view of Roraima
. He offers us to take us on an all inclusive tour for 520,000 Bolivares (about USD$220) each, but keeps changing his price and is very unclear about almost everything we ask him about. As he changes his mind for the 5th time about exactly what we would have to carry, we joke with him that it sounds like he's been running these tours for 2 weeks not 12 years. He takes the joke badly and walks out, but agrees to confirm the price and show us his equipment the next night.Another guy called Frank Khazen, offers us an alternative deal: we buy all the food ourselves and he will provide transport to the start of the walk, a guide, a porter, and the camping equipment for USD$130 each. Sounds like quite a good deal and we arrange to see kit at his place the next afternoon. All of us, except Janet, are worried about buying the food for four of us plus the guide and porter. Janet seems particularly keen on the deal despite the fact that she has never camped out before. She has just blown USD$1500 on a trip to the Gallapagos so probably has cost saving fairly prominent in her mind. She niaively suggests the shopping will take 1 hour.
Final Preparations
Next morning Rachel does a trawl of the other tour agencies and tells us about the best and the worst
03 1st base camp
. Backpacker tours have a 6-day trip leaving soon, are professional, and have excellent equipment, but the cost is more than USD$300. Mystic tours will provide the tour for us for USD$220, but Rachel tells us that their tents and sleeping bags are rubbish. So we decide that if Francisco´s price is right, and his kit is OK then we will go with him. Failing that, Frank´s offer is the back up.
In the afternoon, we check out Frank's kit which is pretty good. He has Vango tents (made in Scotland incidentally) which go down well. His sleeping bags and mats are adequate, but Ryan asks him for a better bag because the one he is shown is a bit thin.
Later in the evening Francisco appears and tells us the price has gone up to 550 Bolivares, but then he backs down to 520 Boliviares when we harangue him. We assemble his tents in the basement of Posada Michelle and discover that they are crappy summer Coleman tents. We might as well sleep outside if it rains. The deal is off, and we inform Frank that we want to go with him.
We are leaving the next morning at 10am, and its now 6pm and we haven´t even started the shopping yet
04 Wild eagles
. We make a quick meal plan and shopping list and head out to the town's supermarkets to stock up. Most of the supermarkets have a pretty meagre selection of goods on offer and as we get closer to closing time tensions start to rise.Ryan keeps coming up with alternative ideas to the meal plan we have agreed, and makes lots of suggestions for additional items when we're in the middle of the shopping spree. We try to placate him by nodding, but basically we are ignoring him and getting on with the job. Eventually he snaps to Janet: 'I might as well go back to the hotel and sleep while you lot do the shopping, you haven't listened to one of my suggestions'. I bury my head in the tinned tomato section, while Rachel tries to bring him back on board. Janet considers his outburst unacceptable and doesn't talk to him for the next four days (which is tough when you are sharing a tent).
By about 8pm most of the shops are closing, but despite the stress, we have actually managed to get 80% of the items on the list which is a bit of a relief. We make an agreement about who gets the remaining bits in the morning before we leave at 10.30am.
Rachel and I don't sleep well that night as we are both having nightmares: me that we have too much stuff to carry, and Rachel that we get soaked and run out of food in the middle of the trip
05 Day 2 towards Roraima
.Day 1: Santa Elena to Paraitepui to Tok campsite
In the morning we gather in Ryan´s room and lay out all the food and equipment that we have to pack into our bags. There is a frightening amount of stuff and we wonder how on earth one porter will be enough, since they are supposed to be limited to 15kg each. Frank suggests that if we need it we can hire another porter at the start of the trek.
We load all the gear on to Frank's ugly brown LandCruiser, and say hello to our local Pemon guide, Carlos. We are also travelling up to the start of the trek with two Japanese boys who will be doing a 10-day trek around the summit, but are carrying all the gear themselves. Rather them than me.
Eventually we leave about 11am, but progress is slow as Frank drives around the town picking up bits and pieces that he's forgotten. Soon we're on the main highway heading up to the village of Paraitepui, the trek start point. Frank is trying to organise the porter on-the-fly and stops periodically to make a transmission on his radio: 'Roraima, Roraima, come in Roraima'
06 Second river crossing
. Our slow start makes me worry because I know we have to begin walking by 2pm in order to get to the first camp by nightfall.We stop in San Fancisco, a little village of concrete and grass huts beside the main highway, where Frank is trying to organise a cooking stove for the Japanese boys. We find a shack where there are chickens roasting in a half oil drum, and we order one to share between the four of us. At least we will eat well once on the trip.
Eventually we drive down to the start of the trek at Paraitepui, and unload the Landcruiser. We make a pile of all the food, and stand by sheepishly as we are introduced to our well-built porter, Elias. Elias has a woven open pack and starts to load up the food, securing it with string. I am amazed when Frank tells us that its not a problem - he will carry all the food for us. Elias hasn't even started and he has already earned a good tip, I think to myself.
Its a fine day and from the dusty field where the trek starts we can see the flat rectangular form of Roraima in the distance. It seems a long way off, and I wonder how I will feel when we get to the top.
07 Giant ants
We see people returning from the trek, and they look pretty dishevelled. One man is walking in his socks, presumably having given up his boots due to the pain. A returning girl walks up to a Dutch girl in another group that is starting and says to her, 'whatever you do don't go, its hell up there'. Further explanation reveals that she suffered from being soaked, frozen, hungry, sunburnt, and eaten by mosquitos. The outburst makes us wonder whether our preparations have been adequate.
We begin walking just after 2pm. The path is pretty good and meanders through grassland and occasional patches of rainforest. Carlos tells us all of the savannah we walk through to the base of Roraima was dense rainforest within his lifetime. Changing climatic conditions, agriculture, and forest fires have taken their toll.
Its a hot afternoon, but we soon get into a good walking rythmn. My pack was quite light until I added the 4kg tent and I reckon I am carrying about 13kg or so. Rachel has the matts and her bag is nearer 11kg. Carlos, the guide, has the stove plus all the Kerosene for it so his pack looks pretty heavy. He is also carrying the 'shit bags' and about 3kg of lime. Once on the summit of Roraima, we have to carry out everything, poo included. We will have to do all the number two's in a bag and sprinkle lime over the top to prevent a bad smell. Elias will carry the shit out- another reason for a big tip. Janet has about the same weight as Rachel, and Ryan's pack seems a lot bigger. He has brought several sets of clothing unlike Rachel and I who have only one change
08 Scenic view
.We arrive at the first camp, Tok, at about 5.30pm, and get the tents set up. We pay a fee (20,000 Bolivares or GBP5.00) to use a cooking shelter and make use of the food storage faciliy. This allows us to leave a nights food at this camp for when we return, saving us (well, Elias) from carrying it all the way up and back down the mountain.
Frank has informed us that Carlos will be happy to cook for us, but since he didn't do the shopping, we decide to help out as he doesn't know what we planned to eat at each meal. The first night we cook two nights worth of bolognaise sauce since we don't fancy carrying the uncooked meat in the heat of the day any more than necessary. The meal turns out to be perfectly tasty and there is even a fair bit of pasta left over. Everyone starts to relax a bit about the food.
We head back to the tents to get ready to turn in for the night. The sky is clear and there are millions of starts glistening in the sky. On the rolling grasslands, legions of fireflys signal their presence on the ground, as though reflecting the light from the heavens. Now we are really enjoying ourselves.
Day 2: Tok campsite to Base Camp
We eat a big breakfast of porridge and eggs before packing up our things. Down here on the savannah, toilet etiquette is to take a trowel, dig a hole, and bury your bowel contents and toilet paper. Unfortunately this standard has not been well-adhered to and there is toilet paper scattered all around the camp
09 Camp 3
. Janet takes the trowel and disappears off into the grasslands, and comes back with a disappointed look. She's never shitted outdoors before and couldn't quite bring herself to squat in the country. Mind you, I am even more shocked by the arrangement that the group from Backpacker Tours have. They have placed a portable toilet (without screen) just 10 metres from the tents, and as I am packing up our things, I see a Dutchman sitting there doing his business. A more reserved English boy in their group grabs the entire toilet and runs off with it behind a bush to preserve some dignity.
We walk down from the camp to the Tok river and take off our boots for our first river crossing. Our guide recommends leaving socks on so that we dont slip. We make it across, Carlos carrying Rachel's rucksack for her. One of the Japanese boys, who is not wearing his socks falls in and soaks his camera. It seems to be broken, but he reckons it will come back to life once its dried out.
We switch to dry socks, put our boots on and continue. In just half an hour we come to the Kukenan river, where we have to repeat the process. This river is a bit bigger and faster flowing, but we manage across OK. Rachel and Ryan decide to take a dip in the water to cool off. Rachel needs to wash out some greasy Dove skincream that she mistook for shampoo in the supermarket. So much for Unilever brand recognition.
For several hours we trudge uphill. It seems to be much tougher today, as the sun is strong, and we are constantly going uphill
10 View from camp 3
. We take plenty of breaks, and enjoy salami and cheese sandwiches for lunch.Ryan entertains me with accounts of his various flings with South American women, helping me to forget how tough the walk is. Sometimes Ryan talks in a language I find hard to interpret. Its American English and many of the 'Black Urban American' phrases mean nothing to me. Ryan doest't understand much that I say either. At first I am not sure if its my accent (which is pretty clear as British accents go), but then I realise that he mostly just isn't listening.
We reach the base camp at 1870 metres mid-afternoon and get the tents set up. There's a small stream near the camp which has a pool big enough for a couple of people to get in. Unfortunately the water is coming straight off Roraima and it is absolutely freezing. No matter how hard I will myself I cannot get into the cold stream for a bath and I have to get Rachel to splash me before I finally manage to duck, gasping, into the water.
That evening we remark that we've still not had any of the rain which everyone has warned us about - it seems likely that it must come soon.
11 Ascending Roraima
Day 3: Base Camp to 'Hotel Principal'
This is the tough day. From the base camp I scan the towering rock cliff infront of us. I can make out part of the ramp that leads steeply to the summit, but there seem to be several sections missing and I cannot visualise a contiguous route to the top.
We set off in sunshine, but soon we are walking in the shade of the mountain massif. Its pretty hard going scrambling over rocks and tree roots, and we have to use our hands a lot in the neverending scramble up.
Janet finds the walk frightening as she is afraid of heights and she lags far behind us. Carlos sticks with her and encourages her along.
We reach a very rough part of the path where a waterfall cascades off the cliff 500 metres above us. The stream is blown around randomly in the updraft of wind, and we put on our waterproof clothing incase it happens to land on us. Elias takes Rachel's backpack and leads us swiftly through this part as it is the most dangerous section of the ascent
12 Ascending path
.We get to within 100 metres of the top and stop to await Carlos and Janet. Elias is worried about us wandering about and getting lost on the top without the guide.
After an hour or so Carlos and Janet appear and we begin the final phase of the climb. We reach the top and look around at the stark rocky landscape. Clouds billow across the surface of the summit and then disappear in an instant, adding to the feeling that we are up very high. For the most part there is no soil cover and we walk directly on slick, hard sandstone. However there are pools of water everywhere and little pockets of colourful vegetation.
We see several types of carnivorous plant immediately. Drosera has miniscule sticky red leaves, and Heliamphora Nutans is in the form of a cone with water at the bottom and hairs angled to prevent insects climbing out. These plants are more common here because the soil is so poor in nutrients.
There are plenty of other strange and colourful plants to ogle at. Xirydaceae is everywhere, and looks like a pineapple with black crocuses poking out of the top. Theaceae is a giant heather-like plant, up to three metres tall, with vibrant red leaves.
We enjoy taking photos of groups of these plants; they seem to be clustered together like miniature Japanese gardens. Carlos points out eroded rock formations that resemble turtles, cars, and mushrooms
13 Changing weather on the cliff faces
. Some of the freshly broken off rocks have fossil ripple marks from the ancient shallow seas where they were formed. Apparently the rocks are all Pre-Cambrian and there are so there are no fossils up here.We walk over to our camp, which is in one of the 'hotels', Hotel Principal, on the summit. The hotels are overhanging layers of rock which provide some shelter from the wind and the rain. Our hotel has a sandy bottomed area where there is enough room to get the two tents in. Climbing up some further rocks there is a sheltered area where we can cook, overlooking the highest point on the summit of Roraima.
Rachel and can see the path clearly to the summit and we wander off to take a look. We are shocked when we get to the cairn at the top though. On the other side is a sheer drop of 700m that you don't realise is there until you are right at the edge. Clouds swirl and whirl around us revealing and obscuring the view to the savannah below. It looks as though its still sunny down there though.
We cook dinner than night and put on all the clothing layers we have. As the sun sets the wind makes it feel very chilly for the first time.
In the night it rains heavily for the first time on the trip. However, our tents are good, and the overhanging ledge certainly provides some protection. We feel a bit cold at night but not cold enough to get up and put on more clothes.
Day 4: On the Summit
In the morning Ryan complains that he didn't sleep at all because of his thin sleeping bag
14 Top of Roraima
. Janet has her own down-filled bag and was perfectly warm. Ours seem to be middle-of-the road; not great but adequate. There are still some showers of rain and as we eat breakfast we discuss the plan for the day. It looks like the weather is too bad to hike the 4 hours one way to Triple Point, where Guyana, Brazil, and Venezuela meet on the map. Carlos suggests another circuit that will allow us to see lots of interesting points on the summit without having to hike so far.
We pass an area where the ground is strewn with white quartzite crystals that glisten intriguingly in the pink sandy stream bottom where they are deposited. Carlos tells us these crystals only became apparent within the last two years. Some of them are fused on to the inside of metmorphic rocks and jut out at odd angles like stubby pencils. They are all perfect six-sided prisms reflecting their underlying molecular morphology. Apparently there are big fines if you get caught with them in your bag on the way out. Visitors have stacked some of the nicer pieces up on the rocks to make an impromptu gem museum.
We walk on through the mystical shifting cloudscape enjoying the cool air
15 Summit and Savanna
. It has stopped raining now and we soon dry off. We come to an area where the surface water has eroded a series of deep blue pools that resemble jacuzzis. Carlos invites us in for a dip, but the water is freezing and the cloudy weather doesn´t exactly encourage it. Anyhow we have only just warmed up from last night. Instead we sit around admiring the view and take a few more snaps on the camera.Our next stop is where the water from the stream that feeds the jacuzzi´s disappears suddenly into a fissure in the earth. Carlos tells us that it emerges somewhere on the side of the Tepui and will drain through rivers in Guyana.
A few yards further and we come to the most northern point on this part of the Tepui. Beyond us are endless rainforests of Guyana, which are look unspoiled and pristine unlike those on the Venezuelan side. There is a small waterfall running off the edge of Roraima at this point and the violent updraft from below sends more water upward than appears to be going down. A sprinkle of water droplets flares up into the sky, glistening in the sun like diamonds, and occasionally the wind directs them on top of us.
Janet, afraid of heights, keeps well back from the edge as we continue further along until we get to a huge rock which has partially tipped over the edge of the tepui; the gap under it creates the appearance of a window into the world below
16 Plants
. Its hard to get too close because of the blast of air that knocks me back as soon as I get close.We stop and eat cheese and salami sanwiches under another boulder that has flourescent orange lichen growing all over it. The Japanese boys arrive with their guide, looking quite windswept, and we say hello. Apparently one of the boys, Massage, has been travelling continuously for 7 years and his friend Tata, for 3. I´m amazed that they have so much energy as they bound off to do more exploring ahead of us.
We pass several beautiful waterfalls and an area where there are some strange stunted Araliaceae trees growing. Their leaves are dark olive in colour and their trunks are entwined with a black moss. It makes the trees look ancient and haunting especially when backlit in the cloudy sky.
We spot a few animals on our walk - the first is a tiny black frog (Oreophrynella)crawling across the sandstone to get to the next pool of water. Scientists say that this species have more in common with frogs in Africa than of those in South America. The two continents used to belong to the single landmass of Gondwana, and the frogs became a evolutionary remnant, isolated high on the tepuis
17 Insect eating plants
. We also see a couple of tarantula spiders, the first time I´ve seen these in the wild. Carlos shows us just how agressive they are by prodding one with a stick. It savagely bites the end before retiring.
After about 5 hours of leisurely walking we arrive back at the `hotel` and review what to do next, as most of the afternoon is still free. Carlos suggests we take a walk to a cave where there is colony of oil birds. Rachel, Janet and I go, but Ryan decides to stay behind. His tolerance for spending time with Janet has decreased markedly and he also seems to want a wash. He kindly agrees to get dinner ready for when we return.
We hike off in the other direction crossing all kinds of rocky and water obstacles until we eventually get to the Guacharo cave. I was expecting a something I could walk into, but it transpires that the cave is a ten metre wide gash in the ground that is almost 100 metres deep. We crawl to the edge and gaze downwards and see and hear hundreds of these strange birds roosting on the rocky ledges. Apparently they fly out at night and eat fruit from palm trees in the forest below. They have an echo location system like a bat that enables them to navigate in the dark
18 Wildlife at camp
. Back at camp, Ryan gets frustrated when Carlos hijacks his recipe idea and exchanges it for one of his own. In the end the dinner turns out fine though. We seem to be getting into a good rythmn for meals now and Elias invariably collects all the water and does the washing up. That man was well worth having on the trip.
We have another cold night but amazingly it doesn´t rain.
Day 5: 'Descent from Summit to Tok Campsite
Today is the longest day as we have to walk all the way back to the first campsite, which took two days on the way up. Fortunately for us its a fine morning with no rain, (fortunate because rain would make the descent very slippery).
We get up early at 6am and we pack and leave the hotel by 7.30am. There only appears to be the Japanese boys and their guide left on the summit now. They will be walking through to The Brazilian and Guyanan sections of Roraima over the next few days
18a Hotel Principal
.The walk down to base camp takes Rachel and me about three hours. We eat a packed lunch there and see Janet appearing about half an hour behind us. Ryan appears to enjoy the downhill and is well ahead of us.
Half an hour before reaching Tok campsite we stop at Kukenan river and enjoy a long soak in the cooling waters. This river is named after another tepui adjacent to Roraima. Very few people ever ascend Kukenan as it is such a difficult climb. On the summit there are no paths and recently one explorer got lost and was never seen again. Carlos tells us he has ascended it only once.
Back at Tok, we rest our weary legs siting under a grass-roofed shelter and enjoy one beer from a local Pemon family who make a little money by selling beers to the tourists at vastly inflated prices.
We feel that the hard part of the trek is now over as we only have a short 4 hour walk back to Paraitepui village. Janet starts being nice to Ryan again and even buys him a beer.
19 Roraima summit
Day 6: Tok Campsite to Paraitepui and back to Santa Elena
The last day we gather up all our stuff as usual, but Ryan and Janet have fallen out again. Apparently Janet was hunting around for bite cream in her bag using her torch in the night and woke Ryan up on three occasions. On the third time Ryan swore at her.
We all set off at different paces and arrive back at at the village where there is transport awaiting us. Rachel and I give our sticks to and English couple starting the walk and wish them good luck.
No sooner have we climbed into the truck than it begins to pour. I can´t believe we did not get wet on the whole six days; we are so lucky.
In the evening we go out for a celebratory pizza in Santa Elena with Ryan and Janet. However everyone is tired and the two of them really don´t get on so its a bit of a strain.
Rachel and I throughly enjoyed the trek though and completing it on my 38th birthday feels like a real achievement. Its just a shame we didn´t get on a little better with the rest of the group.
Comments
Happy Birthday
Happy Birthday John!!!! Ready for the last days of your trip?
cheers