Beijing Ups and Downs

Trip Start Jun 18, 2008
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Trip End Sep 04, 2008


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Monday, July 21, 2008

Over the weekend, Eric's visit kept Adam and I actively behaving like tourists, which is a good thing considering the vast amount we have yet to see in Beijing. On Saturday, we went to Lama Temple, which is a Buddhist complex in the city. My senses were overwhelmed by the smell of incense, and while I was just there to gawk at the old stuff (how often in America does something date back to 1100 AD?) it was interesting to see real live people praying. It sort of reminded me of taking pictures of black hat Jews praying at the Kotel in Jerusalem... it's all part of the effect. However, going to temples in China is beginning to feel like seeing Cathedrals in Europe. If you've seen one, you've seen them all. Lama Temple is worth going to though because of this massive 80 ft Buddha housed in a building that is way too small for it. I couldn't help but think of illustrations from Alice in Wonderland when she grows too big for the room she's sitting in. The Buddha is really impressive, and that is partly because it's so surprising to see a such a large statue crammed into such a tiny space. Also, I think it's carved from a single piece of sandalwood but you'll have to go to Wikipedia (I can't- it's blocked today) to verify this fact for yourself.

On Sunday, Adam and I went to Beihai Park, which is like the Central Park of Beijing... large, green, pretty, and historic. Here, too, is an old temple that we only explored insofar as we hiked to the top of a hill to view the iconic white pagoda up close. The park is very lovely with its weeping willow trees surrounding a lake and it's fun to observe all the activities Chinese people enjoy doing while relaxing there. You can find men with long calligraphy brushes painting traditional characters on the sidewalk with water. Of course using water makes their art form just a temporary one, but it's beautiful and really amazing to watch. People also bring instruments and sing, and they love to rent those overpriced paddle boats.

Waking up Sunday morning and discovering that our electricity had been turned off also precipitated the need to shop for some emergency flashlights. In order to get our electricity back on, we have to bring a specific card to the power office near where we live and pay our bill. However, no one seems to know where this card is and replacing it appears to not be an option. Now, maybe I'm spoiled by Western comforts (like light), but without electricity, our A/C doesn't work, our washing machine doesn't work, our hot water in the shower doesn't work, etc. We're working on a Plan B, which will probably require us to relocate and just save ourselves from anymore inconvenience. My great hope is that our new place will have light AND internet!

It would be a bummer if we move and are then farther away from where I work in the Zhonguancun area. I have finally figured out the bus patterns and, starting today, I've noticed a tremendous decrease in the traffic. Beginning July 20, half the cars in Beijing are banned from the roads each day as cars with license plates ending in even and odd numbers alternate driving. This is a hasty pre-Olympics pollution reduction measure, but it's done wonders for the incessantly clogged traffic as well. Also, my school is located near the Subway Line 10, which has been partially completed and just opened its doors this past weekend, so I imagine more people are opting for the subway instead of bus. Between these two factors, a 40 minute commute has become a magical 15 minutes. In a city the size of Beijing, you can't beat that.

Now for an unhappy update. I finally found my Crocs, and after wearing them today I now have two nasty blisters on my heels. Maybe this has taught me a lesson about the 10th Commandment: Thou Shalt Not Covet.
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