On the beach in Sardinia

Trip Start Oct 08, 2010
Trip End Nov 10, 2010

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On the beach

Flag of Italy  , Sardinia,
Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Steve nixed
Stintino, said he thought the road would be too skimpy, so off North
Eastwards along the coastal road towards Santa Teresa di Galluria
from whence we'll take the ferry up to Corsica. Again, running out of
superlatives! Beautiful scenery all along the way, the road winding
and twisting but really not bad and very little traffic. Plenty of
campgrounds along the way, all of them closed, the advantage to that
being that there are very few tourists. Pulled in along a litttle
road down to the beach, ending up in a lovely parking area with one
other motor home there too. Great beach with gorgeous worn rock
outcroppings. Decided to stay, but first continued for the last 15 or
so kilometers into Sta Teresa to pick up supplies for dinner. Pulled
out our Kobos to read and sat on the beach with requisite wine in
hand to watch the sunset. The other camper was out with his two
beautiful afghan hounds, grooming them.

The camper with the
afghans was a German IT professional who goes there to windsurf.
While to us it seemed plenty windy, he said the winds today were not
sufficient for their purposes, I guess they look for bigger thrills!
He said that there are groups of people who gather haphazardly at
this time of year. Setting themselves up in similar locales and
welcoming anyone who comes along. He said that in short order a few
more people would arrive. Sure enough as the evening progressed two
other Germans came along and we all gathered after dinner, everyone
bringing different wines, liqueurs etc. to share. The first guy
brought along some substance (for lack of a better name), the name
of which now escapes me. He buys it in some small town along the
way, but he says you must not buy the bottled stuff, you have to go
to a particular place in Palau where a man will fill your stoppered
containers, from a large vat perhaps. Anyway, long story short he
says it is sometimes called Sardinian opium and that we must try it!
(Don't try this at home, kids!) So, after ensuring that they were all
drinking it first and in greater quantity than us, we gave it a try.
Tasted faintly of prunes, I thought and packing quite a wallop! They
all had brought their assorted dogs, who frolicked contentedly, while
we took care of serious business. Finally, one of the beautifully
groomed afghans approached bearing a strong scent of cow dung.
Everyone howled as his owner dragged the dog off to the beach for a
late night bath.
Woke up to glorious
sunshine and took our time heading off to Sta Teresa for housekeeping
chores and to catch the ferry to Corsica. Traipsed around Sta
Teresa for some time looking for laundromat and internet- were
repeatedly directed to places that offered laundry services, but not
self serve. Finally found a "lavanderia slot machine" place
with a great restaurant just down the street, we were his only
clients. He said that business had been very bad for 2 yrs., he had
availed himself of the opportunity to lay off all staff and to bring
his stoves etc into the restaurant seating area. This turned our
lunch into performance art, with him talking all the while. No menu-
he just asked if we would like spaghetti with mussels; being deathly
allergic to mussels I turned that down - crab? Perfect! Just
excellent, as was the coffee afterwards into which he tossed Rosemary
(the herb!). By this time we're running late for the ferry so
grabbed up all our half dry jeans and made a run for it- we took the
very last spot on the boat- the operators gesticulating, smiling and
joking at their finesse in filling up every last inch of space. Great
ferry ride, only an hour long with beautiful scenery, midnight blue
sea and azure skies all along the way. Strange feeling, the sun so
hot burning a hole in our backs and the breeze so icy cold on our
fronts. Getting off the ferry going into Bonifacio they directed us
to allow a big truck to go first up the hill- and made us wait to see
if he'd make it! For reasons entirely unknown, they allow two way
traffic on this hill as the ferry is unloading, luckily only small
cars coming down, scant inches to spare. That poor truck driver must
have been holding his breath the whole time.
off immediately towards Ajaccio, looking for camping spots along the
way- no luck. But just as dark was falling we found a restaurant with
a big and beautiful parking area. First meal outside of Italy, as
much as we loved Italy we are keen on seeing some different items on
the menu. Tartare du saumon for me, lamb shanks for Steve, nice.
Asked the restaurateur if it would be ok for us to stay overnight in
his parking area- but of course, stay three days! Awoke to a field of
horses that were not aparent to us the night before, and a steady
stream of little girls being dropped off by their parents for riding
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