Siwa Oasis
Trip Start
Mar 07, 2006
1
4
21
Trip End
Jun 07, 2006
Siwa Oasis,
Egypt
Sunday, March 12, 2006
We arrived in Siwa just before sunset and before even getting off the bus were surrounded by small boys about 7 or 8 years old with Donkey Taxis, the main form of transport here, wanting to take us to the hotels.
We hadn't booked anything ahead, just hoped that we would find something when we arrived. A lovely young guy called Ahmed finally rescued us from the persistent boys and he happened to be from the Hotel we were hoping to get a room in so that was all too easy
Said at his shop
.Wandered around a little that evening and ended up at a restaurant in one of the more expensive hotels. Had a lovely meal and some tea and met two locals, Ali and Saidh who both owned craft shops in town. Had a great chat with them both and began to learn a bit about Siwan culture.
The Siwan people are Berber in origin from Western Africa as far away as Mauritania originally and are Muslim. The women cover themselves entirely if they are married with a very unique shawl type garment that has beautiful embroidery. They are extremely friendly and generous people as we were to discover over the next few days . It was also very refreshing to be away from the baksheesh culture of the Egyptians, expecting money for almost everything from carrying your bags to offering hand towels in the toilets.
The Siwans are just incredibly friendly and hospitable and we spent the next few days drinking tea and chatting with various people in their shops, mostly Ali and Saidh.
Went for a trip out into the Desert in the most clapped out 4WD Nissan Patrol you have ever seen, had a dodgy clutch and we only got stuck once so that was okay!! Spent some time at a gorgeous spring called Abu Sharouf, swam, drank more tea before heading back to Siwa.
Siwan men pretty much lounge around for the afternoon and evening and drink tea with each other. They make it in little enamel tea pots directly over the flame, either gas or a fire, and it is very strong and very sweet
Sleepy street
. You drink it from small shot sized glasses which are shared around until everyone has had some. They then brew the tea a second time which isn't as strong and add mint to it just before serving it. Absolutely delicious. On our second day here Saidh invited us to have lunch at his home and we ate camel (delicious and tasted just like mutton, young though and quite tender) and other traditional Siwan food which is very different to Egyptian food. We had small bowls of soup with small pastas shaped like rice in it, and then rice, a delicious vegetable stew, salad, loads of flat bread and the meat also. Followed by more tea of course!!
Only I could meet his wife though to thank her for the meal as a married woman doesn't show her face to other men. So hospitable, it was a wonderful experience. So we will stay here till maybe 12th March before heading back to Cairo.
