Mountain vistas and endless cups of chai

Trip Start Sep 06, 2006
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16
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Trip End Ongoing


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Thursday, November 9, 2006

The sound of chants and chimes slowly builds with the dawn as I awake. Droplets of sunlight filter through the dewed windows as I pull off the heavy blankets weighing me down with warmth and comfort. I want to see sunrise melt over Khangchendzonga and its sister peaks perched high above Darjeeling.

I take a brisk shower akin to a few splashes of glacial temperature water and put on my long hiking pants, a warm fleece, and a hat. The roof from our hotel is grand with Darjeeling unfolding over the ridge still shedding off its night cloak. The Himalayan snow capped peaks gaze over the waking world. As I sit patiently waiting for the mountains ahead to morph with the brightening morn, the chanters below make another loop around passing underneath us draped with warm shawls and echoing the voice of their guide in song. The valleys below spread out like winged dark messengers preparing for the dawn alleys
alleys
. I gaze upon the world below and feel myself slip into a mood that broods with anxious anticipation.

The first glints of light appear carressing the top of Khangchendzonga as it raises great plumes of snow as if in protest. Its night slumber has been interrupted. It finally settles into the luminescent brightness of its snow covered heights as clouds form a gentle accompaniment to its glory. Satiated with these sights and the town busying itself for the day, I go down from the terrace for breakfast. Tibetan puffed bread with a fresh egg omelette excentuated with a piping hot cup of cinamon and milk tea rounds out my morning.

The northern reaches of West Bengal in Darjeeling are presided over by the very beginning of the Himalayas. As the town arches towards the north one can see the imposing mountains beyond, easily toping 8500 meters. There is a strong Nepalese and Tibetan population here amongst the tea plantations and spectacular landscape. One can just as easily get momos, Tibetan dumplings, as dhal and rice with a side of chapati. The climate is pleasant with daytime temperatures barely exceeding 15 degrees and nightime perfect for sound sleep under down blankets pulled up to ones chin.

The streets come alive with people at the first rays of sunlight and cling to their pedestrains into the long evenings. Food and tea are everywhere with excellent vegeterian fare and of course pure Darjeeling tea from the foothills below. Dogs wander the streets with impunity as school kids in their perfectly starched uniforms amble to and from school. Monks in maroon robes cut through the crowds of shoppers looking for wool sweaters and tibetan antiques inlaid with turquoise, lapis lazuli, and silver clock tower from British days
clock tower from British days
. This town enchants and clings to those who have wandered into its peaceful mountain midst.

Today I head up to Sikkim where I shall begin my 8 day trek on the 10th to the base of Khangchendzonga and back. Getting the permit issued was another bureaucratic feat as several trips had to be made around town climbing and descending the slopes in a search for the appropriate stamps and forms. However, all should be in check and I have all the necessary formalities to enter Sikkim.

Many more pictures to come and stories of my trek once I return.

Thanks for reading.
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