bamboo needles and Malaysian breakfasts

Having just enjoyed both excellent dim sum and the sweltering heat and drenching humidity this morning for breakfast I have decided to retreat to a cool air conditioned internet cafe. Some time to digest and cool off is mandatory today as I am feeling a bit sluggish. It has been a while since I have provided updates as I was giving birth to a large intricate bamboo tattoo while cursing the monsoon rains on a daily basis.

"Sawasdeeka" from Ronald McDonald

As it is monsoon in Thailand indefinitely it seems as no one is sure when the rains are to abate I needed to find something to fill my time. Since watching the rain from my bungalow on Ton Sai seemed just too depressing I decided to get a bamboo tattoo in Ao Nang. Having researched available options Monika and I decided to get one at Mr. Tattoo a small tattoo shop along a stretch of Indian Ocean beach. This guys work was amazing and with twenty years of experience as a tattoo artist we felt that he would do an excellent job.

another angle of the work being done

Monika made her appointment for the next day and I made my first appointment of which there would be many for the day after. We then headed back to Ton Sai on a night longtail boat through some choppy waters before doing our trek through two beaches and around jungle mountain in flip flops. When the tide is low a volcanic rock path opens up along the jungle mountain that can be traversed faster albeit being more hazardous. There are jagged glass like rocks everywhere and sharp abalone encrusting the smoother surfaces. It is liking trekking through daggers and slivers of glass. Unfortunately towards the end of the hike through this treacherous landscape I slipped and fell on my hand slicing open my palm. Blood quickly started oozing forth as I tried to keep me hand above my heart to mitigate the bleeding. By the time I got back to the bungalow I had blood dripping down my arm and running down from my elbow. I survived although this put me out of climbing commission for at least a day.

dim sum breakfast in Penang

The next day was actually sunny and good for climbing but my gashed open palm was in no shape to hoist my body around on cliffs. Instead I went with Monika to watch her get her tattoo. She got two which included the word "cheddar" in Thai and a large tribal phoenix design on her back. Tu's, the tattoo artist, work was amazing to both see completed and watch in progress. This alleviated all my trepidations about having him give me my bamboo tattoo along with the fact that him and Issara, his girlfriend, were watching National Geographic channel when we first came by. This proves character to me and therefore makes me feel less tense around new people particularly those that will be marking me permanently.

don't worry I am prepared in case of tsunami

I came back the next day pumped to see the design that Tu had conjured up in his head based on our discussion the day before. He began drawing a design on my right shoulder then down my arm and then around to my back and finally on my chest. The design was large and rather intricate based on a cyborg/robotic arm theme that he was doing free hand with no prior drawings. I looked it over in the mirror and discussed a bit further enlarging the design before letting him begin. The first stroke of bamboo was light and then quickly sped up to the pace of a slow Singer sewing machine. I could feel each prick of the bamboo which intensified with time spent there. I had to retreat to meditation breathing to keep from holding my breath with each stab. It managed to work till be began tattooing my collar bone. This pain I could not have anticipated. I felt the bamboo hit the skin and the bone at the same time creating a searing sensation that was becoming unbearable. My breath went out of synch and I began to focus on the radiating pain spreading from my collarbone with each stab to my face and down my arm. I felt myself becoming flushed as I gritted my teeth and closed my eyes trying to escape the sensation. No imagery was working and I was left with my focus solely on the hot pain. Eventually I had to ask him to stop so that I could take 5. He then finished the outline which took 4.5 hours the first day.

focused

The whole tattoo took 19 hours over the course of 5 days. We had to move to Ao Nang to be closer to the tattoo place as the trips back and forth from Ton Sai were taking too long and getting too stressful. Boats aren't always available because of storms or other sea faring rules I am unaware of so it was just smarter to stay on Ao Nang. The days spent with Tu and Issara were pleasant with them buying me lunch and fruit and snacks. They were quite hospitable as was their golden retriever puppy, Mark. Tu spent so many hours doing my tattoo everyday that his arm would cramp up. Eventually we were done after much conversation, pain, and quiet focus and he told me that my tattoo was the biggest bamboo tattoo that he had done so far in his long career. He took extensive pictures as well as video as he really got into the work that he was doing on me. It made me proud both of him and his design and me for the pain endurance and focus of which I was capable. We exchanged our information and I got invited to their wedding in December for which I may return if I can find cheap tickets from India. I extended an invitation to the US for them whenever and where ever I return. The experience was quite memorable and I am not going to forget it quickly with a permanent reminder of it on my body.

fruit vendor

The journey to Malaysia was long and tiring although the border crossing was quick and painless. Penang is an amalgam of Malay, Indian, Muslim, and Chinese cultures spread out along battered buildings and bustling roads. The shops sprout out to the edge of the streets which churn with pedestrians, hawkers, motos, and fume spewing city buses. The streets reveal temples and places of worship of all kinds of belief systems. From burning holy logs with painted dragons to elaborate ceramic Hindu temples the city keeps its distinct roots of origin while blending into the Malaysian landscape. I look forward to seeing more and absorbing this nation of various cultures and stifling heat. Thanks for reading.

Monika getting tattooed

Monika wading in the Indian Ocean at Ao Nang

Monika's phoenix

Monika, Tu, and I in front of his sweet car

pained smile at hour 18

the cliffs on Ao Nang

the design and the first bamboo prick

Tu and I