A pool in the middle of nowhere (El Burgo Ranero)
Trip Start
Aug 25, 2008
1
20
24
Trip End
Oct 02, 2008
El Burgo Ranero,
Spain
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Johannes and Kathrin take the lead, we walk our own pace and soon they are gone. We are overtaken by another Korean team - father and son, from the looks of it - and I start to wonder where the Samurai has gone. I haven't seen him for quite some time now. The little Samurai has disappeared from the scene too. A regrettable thing indeed, for they both were intriguing, albeit somewhat close-mouthed characters.
Pilgrims
Today is one of the opportunities where you can chose from two routes. There's one along the old road and another one along the very old, even ancient road. The latter one dates back to Roman times, goes by the euphonic name of Via Traiana and definitely is the choice of the day. Although, it must be said, it leads through no man's land most of the time, and civilization (and therefore water springs) is scarce. Anyway, having chosen the right path was the right choice. Soon the landscape assumes a look that reminds me of the African Savannah. Earthy brown and yellow shades dominate, and the few bushes and low trees adorning the rather dry landscape bring a subtle but appealing change to the usual appearance of the meseta. However, the most exciting thing to happen to us is the sudden appearance of an outdoor pool in the middle of nowhere. There's no housing, no water supplies or whatsoever visible, it's just an empty cracked pool along the way. Lo and behold the wonders which are impressed upon the pilgrim's tangible mind! Visions in bright daylight accompany the seeker of truth (and water), and this is only a promise of what more is yet to come! After checking on the Camera display however, there's plain evidence that the pool is really there, making it appear more of a pretty stupid undertaking than a spiritual symbol of some sort. Yet the true purpose and intent of the pool remains a mystery to us, and as we have more pressing matters to address (the sun getting hotter by the moment and the water supplies dwindling fast), we move on.Agnesa is having problems worse than yesterday. Well, my left instep hurts too, but I have gotten used to it and at least I can walk. Now, Agnesa's problems seem to be different and increasing at an alarming rate. It quite looks like we won't make it to Reliegos, our supposed goal today. We do take an extensive rest in the next village going by the name of Calzadilla de los Hermanillos (Small socks of the little brothers?), brightened by the arrival of Yanú and Nicolette, who both look still somewhat shaky, but definitely better than the day before yesterday
The shadow of a pilgrim
. Agnesa ponders on staying here, but as this is practically the definition of a jerkwater town, she doesn't want to be stuck here in case she can't go on tomorrow. The next town on this route however is Reliegos, and that would be at least another 15 kilometres. So we chose to go cross-country, navigating on poor maps and trying to get back to the main road. The next town along the main road is El Burgo Ranero, so El Burgo Ranero it is. I fear what would happen if Agnesa couldn't go on anymore in the middle of nowhere. We walk in the searing hot afternoon, slowly making our way through barren land, the only landscape variety being a canal alongside the road.In the end, we make it to El Burgo Ranero. I have some delusions of still going the allegedly 14 kilometres to Reliegos, but Max and Petra, sitting in a bar outside their pension, get my head straight.
Having dinner with Max and Petra is becoming a tradition, and we are not to break it today. The refuge is rather shabby, but as a pilgrim, you are grateful for what you get, remember? It is a shower and a bed after all, so no complains here. Tomorrow we will have moved on and the hardships of today will just be a distant memory (chiefly due to the hardships of tomorrow, but not the point). Anyway, time to get a good cap of sleep.
