Trip Start May 19, 2010
9Trip End Aug 03, 2010
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Fortunately even at first light there was life in the old city markets. We made a habit of every morning wandering about to grab food both for breakfast and our lunches. Devastating pastries and deli meats and cheeses. Of course, it wouldn't be Europe with out an endless supply of bread and cheese. Croatia bills itself in sexed up ads across the world as "the Mediterranean as it used to be". A fair call really. While much of the slower old world way of life lives on, so too do a few noticeable habits and traits. Fashion is indeed a bit OTT (think overly ornamented tight jeans and a healthy dose of sparkly crap). And smoking, much to Leah's disdain, still seems to be the pastime of choice. Smoking in bars is one thing, but to be surrounded by highly animated Deli's chain smoking is quite another. Thankfully, bar one overly priced tourist trap, the food has been exceptionally good. Pretty much exactly what you'd expect from a country on the side of the Adriatic, plenty of pasta and pizzas, but also Dalmatian specialties like mince stuffed courgette and lamb stew with wine, herbs and gnocci. Very much enjoy.
Perhaps our most interesting encounter with the locals happened at a local Konoba (family restaurant) that Randall had visited during his last visit to Split
It's pretty obvious your in a special part of the world when a short day trip of less than an hour takes you from one UNESCO world heritage site to another. That second spot was Trogir, a little medieval walled village built on a tiny island between the main coast and another larger island. It was one of the only towns on the Dalmatian coast to flourish after the Venetians conquered Dalmatia (bastards). Subsequently its dripping in Renascence architecture, all tightly knotted inside its city walls.
Still, we were much happier spending our time in Split. Most certainly a grand start to our European meanders.