Fortuitious meeting with the French Fry King
Trip Start Sep 05, 2010
360Trip End Aug 21, 2011
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Where I stayed
The highway was hot and hectic for the rest of the day. Loads of blaring horns and buses making us irritable and hoards of school children who slowed us down because of the sheer numbers of them who have to be overtaken and avoided. The hard shoulder of the highway is actually really crowded, not only with school kids, but food drying out – grass seed, squid and lots of stinky fish on the tarmac. (We assume it’s not ok to ride over these things. It seems very strange to put food in the road but it was also common practise in India.) We are still getting a mixed reception in places and although at one point today we had stones thrown at us again, we also met some amazingly friendly and welcoming people.
We stopped at 30 miles in Duc Pho for a second round of cold drinks and the lovely old lady not only brought chairs out for us next to our bikes and charged us half what the last drinks stop had cost, she brought out her little grandchild to meet us. By this time (12.30) it was really hot, and we decided to get to Sa Huynh, where there was a beach, and spend the afternoon there before doing the last 10 miles to Tam Quan. Although it Sa Huynh was further than expected, and there were some hills on route, we were not disappointed by the beach – it was gorgeous! There was even a resort with a restaurant overlooking the sea. The smells were heavenly as we were starving, and knew that an afternoon spent here in the shade was exactly what we needed. Unfortunately at this point we realised we only had 70,000 dong left. That sounds like a lot but is in fact about £2.30
The scenery was spectacular as we continued, blazing green paddy fields with mountains in the background and occasional glimpses of sea to the left. Luckily it was only 8 miles to Tam Quan and when we got there, we did find an ATM. There was an ok looking hotel in town, but seeing a poster with a big building and some sea we decided to take a risk and follow the signs for a couple of kilometres. A VERY good decision. Not only did we completely chill out as soon as we left the horrendous highway, but after seeing lots of weird and wonderful things being sold in the markets along the street, we came to a river full of pretty looking fishing boats and after that, the sea!
It turned out that the building sign posted was indeed a lovely hotel, but unfortunately it wasn’t completed yet. They had a gorgeous restaurant overlooking the sea which was though, so we had a drink and made friends with the owner’s nephew 'Buu’. He made our day, guiding us to his uncles other hotel, which is finished and is really nice. We’ve got an enormous, sparkling clean room overlooking the river for our usual £8. As he left, he explained that he was the chef at the restaurant and asked us to come back later so that he could cook us calamari and fries! An hour later we ate the most delicious calamari we’ve ever had overlooking the ocean. Buu also told us we’ve got to go back in the morning to have fried eggs and bread before our cycle – amazing. What a day.