. Lunch was late so we braved a bar where a few old boys had been on the home brew all day. A couple of chicken sandwiches and we were good to go. Sunday lunch number 6 was absolutley the most mad. The two old boys actaully gave each other a snog as they left. The local lads were very interested in our bikes, legs and waterproof bike shoes. The stray at the door was very well behaved and only approached when food was offered. The lady cooking was very nice and spoke amazingly good English. The train passing though the village gave us a ten minute break to look around, the poor chap winding the railway gates up and down was less relaxed. The roads then deterioated into mud tracks. The bikes again took a battering and my front left fork now has a crack down it, this makes the pannier rack redundant but also means the bike it now quite wobbly, we are not even out of Europe yet! We pushed for the border worried that the light would beat us, we had unknowingly lost an hour today due to the time zone change. The border crossing took ages, a long line of cars with the border police much more intersted in eating than moving the traffic along. We coasted through the Romanian part with our UK passports and then stopped for the Serbian guards to have a chat. The in between was busy with refugees and it was quite a tense feel, a good time to pedal fast for the last 10 miles to Vrsac. That made it 67 miles for the day, and much of it on third world surfaces. We arrived in Vrsac and did not mess around with looking for a cheap bed. We went to the biggest building in town which has provided a good meal and even music. I really hope they stop soon though, we all like a bit of local culture but this noise is a joke. It is Sunday for heavens sake. The clocks have changed again apparently, we have just regained that lost hour!
It only took about an hour to find our way out of Timisoara. Round and round we went until we found a sign in roughly the right direction. From there we used a canal and railway track to hit a small road out through the slums of the city. It really was depressing, piles of rubbish, dogs roaming the streets and buildings in a terrible way. The roads we had chosen today were always going to be remote, the dangers of yesterdays drivers had presuaded us to take the long way around. What we saw was a real insight into Romanian peasantry. The villages we passed through were years and years behind. A real highlight was a wedding procession led by a merry troup of musicians. Everybody we passed today gave us a quizzacle look. We were somewhere that not many bike tourists go. The dogs showed little interest, our fears of wild canines subsided as we became more attached to the scraggy little mutts that lined the roads. We passed shepards with their flocks. We passed tractors with 5 people in and at one point I saw a car with cabbages packed so tight there was no room for a passenger