The Chronicles of Zambia
Trip Start
May 29, 2007
1
30
41
Trip End
Jul 18, 2007
South Luangwa,
Zambia
Monday, July 2, 2007
Rolling out of bed, throwing clothes on, and regaining coherence proved to be most difficult at this early hour. Breakfast was served at 5:25 sharp. Our food is provided and prepared by the safari company. Lukewarm toast is hardly a breakfast, but that's what ws served. I eat what they offer or don't eat.
Despite the poor contents, the breakfast did its job. There's nothing like a belly full'o'carbs to start the day! (Sarcasm implied) Over breakfast, and I call it that because of the timing not the contents, we spoke with our tour guides about what there was to see.
Many people travel to Africa to go on safaris and most come with the expectation of seeing Africa's 'big five' animals. The big five of animals include the buffalo, elephant, rhinoceros, leopard, and lion. According to our guides, Adam and Martin, South Luangwa Park is home to four. Rhinoceros are not found.
Both Adam and Milton echoed each other when answering questions regarding 'big five' sightings. "I have only ever seen one in all my time as a guide," said Adam when commenting on the 'chances' of seeing a leopard.
We departed camp on a Land Rover Discovery safari vehicle at 6:03. Our Land Rover was designed with three benches. The benches were arranged in stadium seating to provide an optimal view for everyone. Land Rover knows their safari vehicles because no one went without a good view.
The campsite is located directly across the river from the national park. A five minutes drive and we arrived at the South Luangwa park gate.
During the safari, our driver Martin and our spotter Adam scanned the passing landscape in search of wildlife. The name spotter should be self-explanatory. The spotter sits shotgun. The two peer out in opposite directions to cover the greatest area. This setup proved to be successful.
The drive started by seeing impala, puku, as well as waterbuck. Each of these animals is mildly comparable to the American deer. Most similar in size is the impala. The waterbuck is the largest of the three weighing in at 400lbs on average. Each of these animals has different markings and varying antlers. I will refer to these three mammals as African deer (for time sake). This is appropriate because if you see one of the three, the other two are close by.
Moving along we then came across a pack of giraffes. There were three younglings and three full-sized adults. Their markings were stunning. An asymmetrical checkerboard of tans, browns, and burnt oranges would best describe them. Two of the adults from the group were preparing to copulate. The event was spoiled when 8 different safari trucks hastily drove up. This startled the animals and killed the moment.
Whenever there is a special sighting, safari cruisers congregate around. Often times, it is done in a manner that scares the wildlife and ruins the viewing for everyone. Luckily, this wasn't a major problem on any of our drives.
Soon thereafter, we stopped for tea and biscuits. The morning drive was halfway over. Tea in stomach, hippopotami were sighted. During the day, hippos float about in the waters of ponds and rivers sunning their backs. The hippo feeds during the night making it rare for them to be seen on land during the day.
Along with the hippos we also stumbled upon elephants. They were not near the road, but it was nice seeing them. We sat on the road watching for three minutes and then moved on.
Crocodiles, several kinds of birds, baboon, and more African deer included all the animal sightings for the rest of the morning drive.
The guides brought us back to camp at half ten. Upon arrival, I power walked to my tent, changed into my swimsuit, and visited the pool.
The pool was remarkable. It was right on the river bank. It was build like an in ground pool except it was above ground. I'll clarify. The pool was built inside a large circular cement basin. The top was divided much like a ying-yang symbol; half being the water and half being a sunning deck. Spilling out from the pool was a water fall. The water flowed off of the edge and supplied water to a smaller 'kiddie' pool that was on the ground. The cool water combined with the heat of the sun proved to be the best and most relaxing way to spend our free hours during daylight.
Lunch was served at noon. It was a lovely quiche with fresh green and red peppers, onions, and CHEESE! I'm not sure if I mentioned this earlier, but Africans don't consume very many dairy products. Yogurt is the only real similarity here to American dairy. Even then, they eat it as a dessert.
Powdered milk is most often used for things like coffee, tea, cereal, and most cooking. Virtually no cheese is eaten. This was a problem for me because I am a fanatic when it comes to dairy products. I eat cheese with nearly every meal. Cheese on my eggs, cheese in my grilled cheese, Cheese on my spaghetti; you get the idea.
Anyway, back on point, I very much enjoyed the cheesy quiche. Lunch consumed, there came an onset of drowsiness. This was expected considering we had risen at five. The pool deck would be the location for my afternoon nap.
Following my glorious midday slumber, a snack was served as the clock struck three. A medley of fruit, muffins, tea, coffee, and water were all enjoyed.
At four-o'clock we began our night drive. I was skeptical about how successful a night drive may be, but I kept my mouth shut.
From the start of the night drive we had an hour and a half of daylight. We saw many of the same animals. The sun quickly descended and the moon rose at an equal pace. The moon was nearly full and brighter than I have ever seen. It was casting enough light to result in definable shadows. These shadows were black in comparison to the illuminated contents resting on the ground. It was eye-opening. Dusk's light never left, the red-orange-purple-blue sky did.
Like the day drive there was a driver and a spotter, only the spotter had additional responsibility during this time. This new task was to pan the scenery from side to side with a spotlight. Each time an animal was present, its eyes would instantly illuminate when hit by the (20,000 candle powered) light.
The animal sightings were much more thrilling at night. Instead of immediately recognizing species, we had to wait in suspense until the light could clearly define them. We saw the usual African deer, Zebras, and hippos quite frequently. Our spotter also stumbled upon hares and hyenas.
The hyenas were particularly of interest. Unsightly creatures they are. It's no wonder they are scavengers. Of course, I suppose most creatures that scavenge are ugly.
Shortly after our hyena sighting we came upon four or five safari vehicles that were all stoped in the same general vicinity. Each of the spotters had their lights focused about 500 yards away. Several impala were grazing between the illuminated object and the safari vehicles. Ignoring the impala, the lights all met on a log with a tiny spec resting on top of it.
We drove into the mix of Land Rovers. Our guides whipped out their binoculars and instinctively pulled to them to their eyes as if a magnetically attraction had been created. A point of reference; I was sitting on the left side of the car.
"LEOPARD," Milton said in a whisper yell. How exciting!
The binoculars were passed among the safari members and each of us got a good look. Leopard sightings were extremely rare, especially at night. The leopard was remarkable! The orange-brown coat was spotted with sinister black and brown dots. Its white belly was also garnished with similar markings.
Logically, what are the chances of a leopard coming toward 6-8 safari vehicles with blinding bright lights shining in its eyes? Yeah, I didn't think it was possible either. I was wrong.
Sure enough the leopard came creeping towards the impala resting just yards in front of us. Seeing the leopard in the light, the impala were obviously fearful. They bolted across the road in-between and around the idling safari vehicles.
Not surprised by the impala's movement, the leopard continued to prowl forward right for us, with a slow and controlled, confident demeanor. Of all the things possible, I never thought this leopard would cross close to, or between, the Land Rovers like the impala. I was wrong.
Maintaining the same movement in the same direction, the leopard stalked its prey as if the vehicles were nonexistent. The leopard came straight for OUR Rover and came within 20 feet!
Mind you, I am sitting on the side closest to the leopard. Despite my attention focused on this stunning creature, I began to mentally freak out. "There is an animal within 20 feet of me that could rip my head off with one simple jump," I anxiously thought in silence. "To say something at this point would be a death wish"
I'm glad I said nothing because the animals focus was clearly on its dinner and not on any of us. After walking parallel to the road next to our vehicle, it redirected its movement on an angle in order to pass between our truck and the Rover behind us. As soon as it was clear from the veritable traffic jam, it bolted off into the darkness after its prey.
What a rush! I was within 20 feet of an animal that could have maimed or even killed me. I could see every graceful yet deadly movement made by this lethal cat! Cue the adrenaline.
Let's just say that was the climax of our night drive. The rest was dull in comparison. Our drive was nearly completed when we stumbled upon two feeding elephants along side the road. This was our first close elephant encounter. They are massive. Thick grey skin is draped over their entire body with virtually no elasticity. The trunk of both elephants must have been 8 feet in length. Elephants are a bit more intimidating during the night, especially when they are so close.
Dinner awaited us upon our return. A delicious feast of rice and chicken curry was devoured as quickly as it was served. The sun, the excitement of the drive, and the over consumption of food caused a sudden onset of extreme exhaustion.
I hit the hard mattress and overly fluffed pillow with the weight a truck full of bricks. My consciousness vanished into the night like the leopard did earlier. What a day!
To be continued... I need rest
Simile of the day: As optimistic as a newborn fly in a buffet restaurant.
The journey is still unfolding. More to come
