If You Can Dodge a Thief You Can Climb a Mountain

• Pmyers's Profile
• About this blog
• Entry from Kampepuza

Trip Start May 29, 2007 Previous
Entry Trip End Jul 18, 2007 Next
Entry

  Kampepuza, Malawi
Sunday, June 24, 2007

What a good day today. The morning began with a trip to Kampepuza to explore the msika (market). This is the largest market in Malawi. Trust me when I say this: it was a zoo, complete with vendors chanting, mobs of people, and piles of unorganized merchandise being sold. The market is not tactfully structured. Blankets are thrown onto the ground and merchandise is spread out on the blankets. The blankets are arranged in a way that they form mini walkways running parallel to the highway. Market salesman set up their blankets touching the highway. Yes, they are dangerously close. From the highway, the market extends about 300 meters.
 
There are four main categories of products that vendors offer: clothing, shoes, household products, and food. Clothing is thrown into piles and people sift through these heaps in search of agreeable items. Shoe venders will either sell used or new shoes. Secondhand shoe salesmen have a mountain of shoes in which people dig for pairs. The new shoe vendors have a tidy arrangement with neatly-organized shoes. Different foods are sold throughout the market as well. Animals are butchered and sold. Fish, vegetables, herbs, and spices are all for sale. The household necessities include items like soap, utensils, blankets, tablecloths, pots, pans, etc.    
 
Unfortunately, there were no real crafts at this market, but it was fun nonetheless. The only items of real interest to me were the nsalus and the nsema spoons. An nsalu is a traditional piece of cloth that women wrap around their bodies over their dresses. Some women use these wraps to carry children. Others use it in place of an apron. They are a 1x2 meters and very practical here.
     
Nsema is a traditional Malawian food that is eaten almost everyday. Maize flower and water are the only ingredients. Maize flower is used because corn is a prominent crop. It is eaten with beans, peas, chicken, mincemeat, cabbage, and fish. When nsema is made, two traditional spoons are used. These were the other items of interest. One spoon is used to stir and the other is used to divide the nsema into portions. I can't wait to make nsema for everyone!
 
As we wandered through the market Jimmy, Dr. and Mrs. C's grandson, noticed we had a tail. A short man dressed in khaki pants and a white button-up shirt had been following our every movement for the past 45 minutes.
 
To get rid of 'tagalong' we migrated to the most densely populated are of the market. We stopped by one of the hills of clothing and began trying on clothing items in the middle of the walkway. This stopped the flow of traffic. Because we had stopped, tagalong had to keep moving closer to give the appearance of normalcy. Jimmy, Aaron, and I began directing people past us to keep people moving. As soon as tagalong reached us, he stopped and looked in a different direction as if trying to go unnoticed. We delicately told him to pass. I think he picked up on the 'beat it, guy' undertone.  He was definitely a thief.  Luckily, he wasn't a threatening one. No other problems occurred.
 
Aaron and I bought Jennifer a little going away present. We bought her an African dress. This dress was white with sea-green flowers printed on it. We made her wear it. Over time she actually began to like it. Ha-ha. 
 
From the market, a minibus would be our transportation back to Ntcheu. The size of a minibus is somewhere in-between a conversion van and a minivan. Drivers pack in as many passengers as space will allow. There were 26 people in ours. There was barely enough room for my chest to expand while breathing. I am glad it was only a 25-minute drive. I couldn't imagine riding in one of those cross-country, like many Malawians do.
 
A makeshift lunch was in order upon our arrival back to the Chilopora's house, before hiking. It consisted of bananas, tea-biscuits, yoghurt, and margarine sandwiches. Not the most substantial lunch, but the carbs were useful.
 
The climb began 30 minutes later. The first ¾ of the mountain went quickly without obstacles. It's amazing what a trail can do. From that point it became a bit more difficult. There were no distinguishable trails and the terrain was steeper. It took us four times longer to climb the last part than it did the first ¾. The last leg wasn't bouldering and it wasn't hiking. The activity was somewhere in-between. Perhaps we could call it bould-cliking (boulder-climbing-hiking).
 
Sweat, blood, and frustration were all present. Jennifer fell of a rock onto her back and cut her hand, Jimmy ripped the crotch of his pants, and we were all pretty sweaty. The climb was well worthwhile. The view at the summit was phenomenal. We could see hundreds of kilometers in every direction. There was also a beautiful panoramic view of the city of Ntcheu.
 
We enjoyed the striking outlook for 30 minutes and then began descending. The trip down was much easier and without injury. When walking back, Jimmy had to hold the crotch of his pants because there was a gigantic hole. To make him feel less awkward, Aaron and I held the crotches of our pants as well (see pic). We received some good looks. I mean, people stare anyway because we are Caucasian, but when there are two white guys walking while holding the crotch of their pants, open-mouthed awestruck expressions ensue. I enjoyed them.
 
Dinner was quiet. Dr. and Mrs. C got a kick out of Jennifer's new dress. Dr. C said Jennifer looked very beautiful with her proper African dress. Everyone was exhausted from the busy day of haggling and hiking. Good sleep would come, but not before a goodbye soirée for Jennifer. Aaron and I purchased a bottle of Malawi's finest and the four of us (Aaron, Jennifer, Jimmy, and I) celebrated with wine and conversation. We chatted into the early morning and then retired. The journey is still unfolding. More to come.

Print this entry Share Lilongwe hotels

Previous Entry Next Entry