Not more volcanoes
Trip Start
Feb 23, 2008
1
21
32
Trip End
Aug 23, 2008
Where I stayed
Monkey Island Hostel
We left Granada early in the morning and headed to San Jorge to catch a ferry to Isla de Ometepe. Ometepe is formed by 2 large volcanoes - Volcan Concepcion (which is still active, its last major eruption was in 1957) and Volcan Maderas. Lava flowing from the 2 volcanoes created an isthmus between them and united both in a single island.
The ferry arrived at Moyogalpa, 1 of 2 main towns on the island, near Concepcion. We were headed to Merida, a small placeat the other volcano and so hung out at a cafe while we waited or the bus. The bus trip took about 2 hours despite being less than 20 miles but the roads were more like dirt tracks
We headed to the Monkey island hostel. Not because of the name but as it was recommended to us by a friend on Utila. It was rustic, had a large number of hammocks and beautiful view of the lake and best of all was only $2.50 a night.
It had taken us 10 hours to travel what i would say was a short distance from Granada so we grabed some beer and headed down to the lake.The hostel was opposite a small island called monkey island. I was not quite sure if it was named correctly as it was only 50m from the shore and was erriely quiet with no sign of monkeys. The sunset turned out to be pretty impressive. It was impressive because a storm was moving in and as had had happened the previous 6 nights it rained.
The next day was spent pretty much just lazing around in one of the hammocks, playing cards, chatting to other travellers and occasionally getting up to eat.
We awoke to a nice day but unfortunately we had needed to leave by 7am and it was already 9am so instead we hiked up to the waterfall above San Ramon. The weather was warm and humid and after the uphill hike it was great standing under the cold waters of the waterfall.
One thing about Ometepe or maybe it was this hostel in particular were the number of bugs at night. Huge moths, beetles, grasshoppers and mosquitos swarm at night around any source of light and if you happen to be sitting under the light you will be continously bombarded by them. On the second night a centipede bit me on the leg, resulting in a burning pain for the next 20 minutes or so. After nearly been free of bites from my time at Utila it wasnt long before i was covered again.
We had planned to wake early and do the volcano the following day but after a late night of drinking and cards no one was up for the hike and so it was another day of hammock lying. Unfortunately this was our last night here. A ferry ran twice weekly from the island to San Carlos and if we missed it we would have to wait another 4 days. Part of me wanted to stay, it was very peaceful and cheap here but it was time to leave. I know i hadnt climbed the volcano and that is what most people come here to do but it wasnt active and it offered a view and i had seen views before or so i justified to myself
We caught the bus to the ferry and bought a first class ticket for the 10hr overnight ride to San Carlos. It was a lot cheaper in regular class ($2 vs $7) but i felt like i needed a good night sleep and looking at the regular class i dont think i would have got that. It actually reminded me a bit like the movie Titanic. We were at the top of the ferry with airconditioning, video, comfy seating where we could lie down and sleep and a security guard at the stairs. And the rest down below. But like the movie they were probably having more fun.
The ferry arrived at Moyogalpa, 1 of 2 main towns on the island, near Concepcion. We were headed to Merida, a small placeat the other volcano and so hung out at a cafe while we waited or the bus. The bus trip took about 2 hours despite being less than 20 miles but the roads were more like dirt tracks
We headed to the Monkey island hostel. Not because of the name but as it was recommended to us by a friend on Utila. It was rustic, had a large number of hammocks and beautiful view of the lake and best of all was only $2.50 a night.
It had taken us 10 hours to travel what i would say was a short distance from Granada so we grabed some beer and headed down to the lake.The hostel was opposite a small island called monkey island. I was not quite sure if it was named correctly as it was only 50m from the shore and was erriely quiet with no sign of monkeys. The sunset turned out to be pretty impressive. It was impressive because a storm was moving in and as had had happened the previous 6 nights it rained.
The next day was spent pretty much just lazing around in one of the hammocks, playing cards, chatting to other travellers and occasionally getting up to eat.
ometepe1
The hostel was one of only 3 places were you could get food and the local lake fish was delicious. That night we meet some Israelis who had arrived and planned to climb the volcano the next day. Apparantly you needed a guide to take you up due to the disappearance of some backpackers a few years previous. The hike up and back was around 8 hours thru rainforest ending in a descent to the lake that had formed in the crater.We awoke to a nice day but unfortunately we had needed to leave by 7am and it was already 9am so instead we hiked up to the waterfall above San Ramon. The weather was warm and humid and after the uphill hike it was great standing under the cold waters of the waterfall.
One thing about Ometepe or maybe it was this hostel in particular were the number of bugs at night. Huge moths, beetles, grasshoppers and mosquitos swarm at night around any source of light and if you happen to be sitting under the light you will be continously bombarded by them. On the second night a centipede bit me on the leg, resulting in a burning pain for the next 20 minutes or so. After nearly been free of bites from my time at Utila it wasnt long before i was covered again.
We had planned to wake early and do the volcano the following day but after a late night of drinking and cards no one was up for the hike and so it was another day of hammock lying. Unfortunately this was our last night here. A ferry ran twice weekly from the island to San Carlos and if we missed it we would have to wait another 4 days. Part of me wanted to stay, it was very peaceful and cheap here but it was time to leave. I know i hadnt climbed the volcano and that is what most people come here to do but it wasnt active and it offered a view and i had seen views before or so i justified to myself
We caught the bus to the ferry and bought a first class ticket for the 10hr overnight ride to San Carlos. It was a lot cheaper in regular class ($2 vs $7) but i felt like i needed a good night sleep and looking at the regular class i dont think i would have got that. It actually reminded me a bit like the movie Titanic. We were at the top of the ferry with airconditioning, video, comfy seating where we could lie down and sleep and a security guard at the stairs. And the rest down below. But like the movie they were probably having more fun.

