Nairobi, Kenya - Hangin' out

Trip Start Apr 01, 2007
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Trip End Ongoing


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Saturday, June 23, 2007

Ok.. this is ANOTHER LONG ONE folks, so, instead of frequent short updates - methinks they will be LONG rambles as to catch up to the lack of accessible internet.. and I sure do love talking ;).. soooo...

Well... I am still hanging out here in Nairobi. It has definitely been a culture shock of many sorts. I thought that I could handle all different types of cultures, but this one is probably the most distant and different from what I ever have experienced.  I can't really post any photos yet, because the cafe that I am at is just using a modem and the pages are REEEAAALLLYY slow to load.  But if you see what it is like here, it is definitely - well, more or less a polar opposite of what we are used to.  Well, maybe I shouldn't go that far in saying that, but things are definitely different to a degree that, sometimes after travellling back from 'downtown', my mind felt completely drained and empty just contemplating how these people live every day. I mean, to them it is everyday life.  To me I see chaos, confusion - every man for themselves.

The weird part is, everyone is striving to live, to eat, to become more educated and more successful.  In doing so, and in a land where the pay is low and poverty is high - it seems really hard for anyone to think about anyone but themselves.  In North America, the government is there to intervene, to regulate and to enforce. Well, imagine a country without a REAL government.  This is probably the closest to anarchy I can imagine.  But, don't get me wrong - it all isn't one big 'gong show'.  Somehow, through the completely chaotic traffic (private buses driving against traffic, on sidewalks, (cutting people off is completely standard driving behaviour and expected)), vendors everywhere and on the street, masses of people walking around - somehow they push forward and keep living life.  I mean, I know this makes simple sense from an outside viewpoint, but until you are live and in person - you can't grasp how DIFFRENT people can live on the other side of the world.

I buy my simple groceries at a wooden shack with corrugated metal for a roof. Yes, basically a shanty.  The roads, to travel approx 6 blocks, is faster to walk due to most roads being, well, NOT being maintained, ever.  Cars go through shocks/bushings here almost monthly.  In my area,I - save the other 2 german hostellers - am the only white guy in the whole area. 'Mzungo' as they all me (rich white man). The things that are expensive in america are cheap here, and vice versa.  A beer costs 1.60 CAD, a meal - not much more.

I am working on my Kiswahili (major language), but it is very slow going ;). I am staying, basically, at someones home where several locals live and run it as a hostel.  They are like a small family and are very welcoming.  They make native Kenyan meals, and they party ALOT - hence my 'starting-to-deteriorate' liver, crying out for help.  Even though the average wage here is $100 US a month, they some how still keep hanging out, enjoying life, and as the slang term goes 'Hakuna Stress' (no stress).  

I am hesitant to just break out the camera and bust out shots, as if you see someone with a device that is worth more than almost a years salary, you might want to change your moral compass briefly, if you know what I mean.  Generally though, people have been very friendly and easy going, as long as you don't go to the wrong area at night and keep your wits about you - you are fine here. 

Travelling from United Arab Emirates, coming from Munich, I was on a flight with a lady from Kenya.  We didn't talk the whole flight until, about, the point of disembarking in Kenya.  After not knowing where to start with my volunteer attempt, I found out that this lady was the director of a local private school. We talked, exchanged information and went through the Airport rigamaroll of entry, visas, etc. After, she offered me a ride to my hostel, which they went more than out of their way for to help me find, being that the roads are not labeled here, really, and nobody heard of the place.  In the end, it was found and everything was right as rain. Long story short, I was invited to check out their school one day. Well.....

Words cannot describe what this trip was like. Poverty upon poverty, 4-5 year old children in a school uniform and backpack, walking down these muddy, rocky streets - through shady looking men and dirty shanty stores - on their way home from their overcrowded schools which parents can barely afford at $30us / month.

I will try and get pics the next time I am there, but it is a sight that TV or the media just DOESN'T really show. Oh yeah, and on the other side - I have now learned through my own experience that the media and TV has about 10% truth and 90% sensationalism, exploitation, half-truths and mind-numbing imagery.  I think I made the right choice by disconnecting my cable along time ago.  Don't get me wrong, this trip hasn't embittered me towards the media or anything like that - it's just when you come to this side of the world, your eyes and mind open up in ways you don't expect.  I think everyone should come over here at least for one week in their life to change their paradigm on humanity. Certain parts of me want to just give everything I have away to this society, seeing that even $50 can make or break someone's life here.  But, the more I see, the more I realize I can't change the world as one person. There are too many people, too many aspects and the real question - where do I spent my time or HOW do I spend my time to REALLY make the difference I want to make.  The government is unbelievable corrupt in many areas of Africa - Kenya not being an exception. Many aspects of the government leave people to barely survive and lining their own pockets for the luxury to drive big cars and live like us 'westerners' do.  It's evident everywhere.  And again, one way or another, people here don't give up and life still goes on. The weird thing? I encounter more beggars in Canada, Vietnam and Europe than I have here. I have been here over a week, and only have had 2 small children ask for money, and then quickly depart upon an unsuccessful try.  I believe Africans are a proud people and I respect them greatly for that. 

I could type forever, so if you want to know anything specifically, do send me an email and ask me.. Coming to Africa has multiplied the soul searching factor ten-fold, and is just doing a number on me noggin'. If you have any internal struggles or life questions, come here and I have a feeling you will be straightened out, right quick.

Don't worry,  I won't pain you with a reflection this time.  So much going on in the head, I think verbalizing it would require another 2 hours of internet time here - and it's time to move on.  Safe and sound here, everything is grand.  This weekend, we are going to a Maasai (tribes you see in National Geographic) national park for a Safari.  A Maasai tribes person (who wears normal clothes though) is going to take us in and we are going to stay with his uncle, the owner of the park.  The photographers dream methinks. 

K... until next time...

  
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