Bye Bye Calcutta
Trip Start
Sep 19, 2002
1
115
129
Trip End
Sep 22, 2003
Calcutta,
India
Monday, August 4, 2003
By Sunday LJ was feeling much stronger and so we decided to plot our escape from Calcutta. We jumped in a taxi to take us to the train ticket booking office where we arrived at about 1.45pm. The man on the door told us to hurry as they shut at 2.00. We joined the queue and got to the front at 2.00 only to be told that they were now shut! Deep breathe and count to 10! Being a sunday the roads of Calcutta were relatively quiet. For 6 days of the week you get in your taxi and sit in traffic for most of the journey. Then along comes sunday and a red mist comes down over the drivers as they see clear roads ahead of them. If we have been at all critical of drivers of other countries in the past we take it all back, Indian drivers take the chequered flag by a mile. We had a number of near death experiences on the short journey back to the hotel at one point cutting right across a bus.
4th - Jumped in another taxi to try and buy our train ticket again. The young driver smiled and indicated that he knew where he was going. Five minutes later he stopped and started talking in Hindi to us. It soon became clear he didn't know where he was going so he asked a passerby. We drove a little further and he stopped and asked someone else. And a little further and he asked again! Eventually we arrived at the ticket office and he got upset when we wouldn't pay the full bill!
In the evening, ticket in hand, we headed for the train station. We had been told to allow about an hour and a half to get to the station which seemed a lot for quite a short journey especially as it was 8.00pm. We were very greatful for the advice as after a short drive the traffic came to a halt. The problem was the Howrah bridge which is apparently busy just about any time of the day. It is a huge suspension bridge over the river and we were amazed at the huge numbers of people crossing both by vehicle and on foot. We managed to arrive at the station on time but were again amazed by the number of people crammed into the station. We managed to find our train ok and set about finding our carriage number five. We found a car 5 and fought our way on with our backpacks. A look of panic spread over LJ's face as she saw that the carriage was jam-packed with Indian men. There were no bunks just hard seats and people sitting in the luggage racks. We prayed that we were on the wrong carriage and shoved our way off. In trying to get off LJ encountered the wandering hands of the Indian men. I tried to explain to her that they are just touchy feely people but she said they were touchy gropey! We soon discovered that there were a number of carriage 5s depending on the class. We were booked in 2nd class sleeper (non aircon) which is made up of triple bunks. Unlike Thailand there is no bedding and the carriage is totally open with no curtains. It seems that it is common for the locals to use these carriages with no ticket and so you have to be quite insistant when fighting for your designated seat/berth. Although called a sleeper carriage sleep is not really an option as countless people go up and down the carriage constantly trying to sell you something. They all shout at the top of their voices telling you what they are selling. This is ok to start with but when someone shouts chai at 3 in the morning he is asking for trouble. There are also loads of beggars going up and down the carriage, even a few transvestites (men in sarees - not good). Small boys , about 7 years old, shuffle up the aisle sweeping the floor and then ask you for money. We eventually arrived at our destination, Varanasi, glad to get off!
