Verona - Guiletta's town...

Trip Start Sep 03, 2008
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Trip End Nov 13, 2008


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Flag of Italy  , Veneto,
Saturday, October 18, 2008

Today on our journey into Verona we encouintered one of the two remaining town gates, "Porta-Nuova". The two remaining gates were connected by a garden which in whole separated Verona's old-town from the new. We then made our way up "Curso Porta-Nuova" towards the Arena; then making a bee-line for Piazza Erbe which is adjacent to Casa Di Guiletta, otherwise known as Guilette's house from the Shakespeare play Romeo & Guilette.
The entry gate to Casa Di Guiletta is covered with graffiti and paper notes, representing messages between lovers over the centuries. The introduction of a computer terminal within the complex to allow people draft letters, as well as the promotion of the use of post-it-notes, are precursors to the eventual reconditioning of the walls to bring them back to their original glory. FYI when we entered the Casa we purchased a Verona Card each. It represents great value should you wish to explore more than one historical feature in the town (and catch public transport that day should you desire).
The courtyard contains a bronze statue of Guilette, with a "very shiny" right breast. Legend has it that touching the right breast of that statue will bring a person a new lover! Obviously, there was a large queue of people (of both genders) taking part in the ritual.
Inside the Casa there was a good collection of Fresco's and furniture from Verona's history. The house also contained the ball-room (although smaller than I had imagined) and various other rooms which features in Shakespear's play, excluding the crypt (which we got to later). The Casa was quite narrow and comprised of many floors. It was common to see a courtyard, with the floor of the courtyard providing the roof of the house below.
Once we completed our exploration of the Casa we made our way past St. Anastasia toward the Duomo, stopping for our first Italian Gelato, and it was good! Shellie and I used to live in an Italian area in Sydney so the taste of good Gelato brought back fond memories. 
The Duomo is spectacular. The area below the present day church has the remains of a church from the 3rd century; as well as a baptism fountain and crypts from the 11th century. However, even this encounter with the past was small compared to what we saw over the river, the "Teatro Romano", or roman ruins. A church built on and near the ruins had been converted into a museum. I found it special to be seeing Roman ruins in the country which houses Rome! Within the Church was a Roman style courtyard which was exactly what I had pictured one would be like.After this we made our way along the bank of the river towards Guilette's tomb. This location has an interesting story. Currently there is a church on the location which, like many here, has been converted (in part) to be a museum; although you can still get married there (there were two wedding parties finishing their proceedings as we arrived). The tomb itself was tucked away and, in a similar fashion to Casa Di Guilette, was covered in graffiti. The tomb itself has been a horse watering trough, and was converted into "Guilette's tomb" by the smart person in charge of Verona's museums in the 1930's when we realised the tourism opportunity.The trip through both Guilette monuments was very educational. For example, Shakespeare based Romeo and Guilette on a novel which had been written about the feuding families in Verona. Shakespeare, writing the play in 1597, had never actually been to Verona (I don't believe he ever visited).We made our way to the Arena once we had completed with the tomb. The Arena hosts Theatrical and Concert performances, can seat 20,000 and, given the heritage value (built by the Romans), watching such things there would be magical. We stayed in the Arena until the sun had set and then made our way towards the Castelvecchio. On the way we encountered a band, a marching band completed with baton twirlers, and a citizens arrest of a bag snatcher (this was very entertaining, all the yelling in Italian!).While the Castlevecchio was closed when we got there we were fortunate enough to encounter an outdoor musical performance occurring that night only. There was a range of musical instruments including a double bass, a harp, two electric guitars, a sax, a trumpet, a man on a synth and another on a large instrument which used shaped glass to create sound, and finally two flutes and some violins.These musicians were spread around the cloister, as well as a couple located up in the battlements. There was no sheet music, rather the composer/conductor running around the cloister, gesturing with his hands to each of the musicians what he wanted, which they then interpreted. It was very free form, quite strange, but very good.After there we made our way home, stopping for some traditional Italian pizza (Margaretta and Marinara) before retiring. Tomorrow we head for Venice.
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Comments

robnphil
robnphil on Oct 20, 2008 at 05:20AM

Wow what a trip
What fantastic photos you have posted - We are looking at your blog on a daily basis to castch up on your trip. You are certainly seeing some wonderful parts of Europe including some off the beaten track areas. Rob (Ma) and Phil (Pa)

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