Week Four - Wild Coast, Lesotho and Durban
Trip Start
Aug 26, 2003
1
4
50
Trip End
Aug 24, 2004
Malealea,
Lesotho
Tuesday, September 16, 2003
Up early to catch Baz Bus to Cinsta at the start of the Wild Coast. Getting used to packing quickly and getting on our way. Arrived at Buccaneers Hostel around midday and checked into our private lodge overlooking the lagoon and the beach. Due to heavy rains we had to wade through the lagoon as the path was underwater to get to the shops on the other side of the lagoon to stock up on necessities of wine, beer and crisps. Buccaneers best hostel so far. Free activities every afternoon at 4pm with free wine. Today was a booze cruise up the lagoon. Twenty six guests turned up. So two shuttle trips were needed to ferry guests to dry spot for wine drinking and chatting. Soon demolished wine boxes and boat had to go back for more, with us on board. Back to hostel at 8pm for gorgeous dinner of lasagne round communal table with new friend Tracy from Perth
Buccaneers Booze Cruise
. Afterwards into bar for late drinks and music.Day 23 - Wednesday 17 September 2003.
Up early to go horse riding along the beach but cancelled so went canoeing on lagoon in double canoe instead. Nicola rubbish, Peter exhausted by time we struggled back to camp. Decided to head on to Lesotho next day. Lesotho has the highest low point of any country in Africa. Phoned Avis and booked 4x4 jeep for rough terrain and famous Sani Pass out of Lesotho. Very excited to see what the jeep is like cos girl on other end of phone sounded a little vague. Heavy rain storms in afternoon returned to our lodge for wine. Afternoon's free activity of volleyball cancelled due to wet sand on court so rescheduled for Killer Pool in bar and of course free wine. Nicola wins several games so gets to drink pints of wine. Up to dining room for candlelit Mexican Night with to die for Burittos, spicy rice, desert, free wine and live music provided by fantastic three piece Zimbabwian band which created a brilliant ambience for the evening. All for R50 each. Power cut again that evening.
Day 24 - Thursday 18 September 2003
Sorry to leave Buccaneers as lovely sunny morning and have thoroughly enjoyed the whole Buccaneer experience
Buccaneers Killer Pool
. Lift into East London by lodge minibus to pick up jeep at airport. Vehicle delivered more like a cattle truck than a jeep but will hopefully get us through next couple of days. Didnt leave East London until 1pm instead of initial plan of 11am at latest. North of Queenstown we were flagged to slow down by oncoming traffic and very sadly came across dead man on the road. There were people in attendance on the phone so did not stop but disturbing nonetheless. Can only assume that he fell off the back of an open truck as road was straight and wide. Drove on with renewed sense of mortality and things in perspective. Weather not so important anymore. 650k and seven hours later after crossing the Van Rooysren Gate border into Lesotho we arrived in the dark up the mountain pass at Malealea Lodge just in time to catch dinner with two hundred Germans. Checked into traditional built Rondavel with thatched roof, en suite bathroom and cozy beds with famous Lesotho blankets and feather quilts and pillows. Would like to stay two more nights but unfortunately fully booked.Day 25 - Friday 19 September 2003
Bit of a lie in and missed breakfast. Did a spot of sunbathing outside hut instead. Then lunch of gloopy pasta, salad and bread. Then off with our other virgin horse rider, Ken Lukai for two hour ride and one hour hike to see Cave Paintings
Buccaneers View
. Horses excellent and nice slow pace. Arrived at top of gorge where young girl ran from the village to take us to see the Cave Paintings. Hadnt expected to clambour down rocks deep into the earth's bowels and were greviously disappointed by crap stick men paintings in caves. Why is it that in all the history of the world the only people ever to draw pictures in caves were entirely devoid of any artistic ability. Stickmen with horns and cows with pointy feet do not justify a tourist attraction. Lesson learnt never to go out of way to see Bushman Cave Paintings again. Nonetheless beautiful scenery and landscape which we were unable to capture due to the batteries which Peter bought being dead. Ken kindly offered to email photos at earliest opportunity so hopefully they will appear on this journal at a later date. But take our word for it the paintings were shite. Another disappointing meal but enjoyed Baileys in silver goblets around camp fire before bed.Day 26 - Saturday 20 September 2003
Up at 6.15am to start journey to Sani Top Chalets. Expected journey time 8 hours. Border crossing shuts at 4pm hence early start. Passed through many Lesotho village with friendly waving locals. Three quarters of the way to Sani over mountains exceeding 3000 metres we came across newly tarmaced portion of the road which we were informed the Chief Engineer had specified the wrong surface mix
Durban Harbour
. It had therefore deteroriated into a maze of deep pot holes which took an age to negotiate but thankful for our cattle carrier. Hopefully Chief Engineer is enjoying his new career laying kerbs on the Glenshane Pass. Arrived at the highest border crossing in Africa at 2.30pm. Final stretch of dirt track to the top just barely passable in 4x4 glad that we didnt change cattle truck to saloon as threatened. V v windy at top therefore decided not to stay in chalets but head down to Sani Top village back in South Africa. As we got our Passports stanped at the SA checkpoint we unbelievably met the 3 Irish girls that we spent the day with in Plettenberg Bay. Had quick chat and a laugh with them before heading on. There didn't look like much happening in Sani Top so decided to head towards Central Drakensberg. Took the shorter route from our rather limited map in guide book and after some time came across a sign saying that there was another 90kms of windy dirt track roads to go. You dont see one of those every day. By this stage our diesel guage read zero. Panic started to set in and the conversation dried up. Didnt pass a village for miles and when we did no sign of a petrol station. Next major town of Nottingham Road was still about 40k away when it started to chug. Limped into NR and went into petrol station at 5.10pm. Station shut at 5pm. White knuckle drive up the road and thankfully found an open station just in time. Eventually found guest house with available cottage in Mooi River. Owners Ron and Sandy Gold of the Stoneyhaven Farm and fans of Ireland after visit made us feel very welcome
Lodge at Malealea
. After lighting the fire we sat down had a glass of wine and watched the passing electrical storm v dramatic. Nice end to 800k and eleven hours drive.Day 27 - Sunday 21 September 2003
After lie in got up and decided to head to Pietermaritzberg known as PMB. Booked into City Royal Hotel. Satisfactory. Went to Chequers Mall. Updated last weeks travel pod and then into adjacent Maginty's Irish bar for pints and watched Man Utd Arsenal match on tv. Phoned home and it was great to speak to our families then back to hotel and booked Hippo Hide Lodge in Durban for next night.
Day 28 - Monday 22 September 2003
Short drive to Durban checked into our room The Wallow. Name doesnt do it justice in fact v impressive lodge with great facilities if only weather would improve. Drove down through city centre. Memories flooded back for Peter who had been here 22 years ago. Drove past City Hall which is a facsimile of Belfast City Hall and down to Wilsons Wharf for lunch and wine at Zaks. Went for tea time cocktails at Bohemian Beanbag Bar. V good. Made decision to head Swaziland on Wednesday on Baz Bus then hire car to Kruger and nip across to Mozambique for a few days on the beach.
