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Revolving a day back around the world - From
there I will be one day
younger... and if I can't
get used to the idea,
maybe I'll just have to do
it again the other way...
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Disembarking in Puerto Montt, off to Chiloe
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Disembarking from the boat in the morning, we headed straight for the bus station, with other travellers. The flow of passengers from the Navimag dissolved into buses and guesthouses.
My next stop was the Island of Chiloe, a place that was said to be special: a bit isolated from the rest of Chile, in the far south of what was reachable by land, it stood as a resistance place by the indeginous populations against the Incas, the Spaniards, the Chileans. The architecture, the culture, the beliefs are different, having evolved on their own. The weather is said to be terrible, Darwin qualifying it as one of the most rainy places on Earth.
Half way down the Island (that is maybe 100km form its northen tip, from where we accessed by ferry), sits the town of Castro, and that is where I arrived with Lionel, Bruno, french Marie and german Eva, two girls we had been in the boat with.
The city was just beautiful, and the weather perfect. During the bus ride we had already seen the main architectural particularity: most houses are made of wood, and are usually painted in bright colors. Near the water there are palafitas, houses on stilts, and fishing boats everywhere.
As we walked along the water, we were invited to take a boat tour to see lobos etc... Noooooo! No more boat!
We had lunch in a restaurant, it was not good. But interesting: Marie touk a Curanto, which is a big mix of mariscos (seafood), all kind of meats, poataoes and seaweed buns. It is the specialty of the island, but apparently it was not well made. The mussels were just huge, gigantic. I had a kind of salmon sandwich: two salmon steaks, and in between a fried sausage and cheese. It was gross, just awfull. Don't do it at home.
We spent the afternoon organizing, planning on renting kayaks and go to camp on a beach in the fjord. Eventually we did not do that, it was a little bit too hazardous, as the kayaks that were available turned out to be really basic. Still did something usefull, as I bought a new pair of jeans, the old one bought in Oz having given its last breath on the boat, in the form of a loud crack between the legs.
Iglesia San Francisco de Castro: built a century old, and world heritage building. A wooden cathedral, just beautiful.
There are lots of wooden churches on the archipelago of Chiloe, a reason in itself to visit the Island.
In the evening we had a huge dinner at the guesthouse, we had even found goat cheese!
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