Across the Friendship Bridge

  Ciudad del Este, Paraguay
Saturday, July 5, 2008

3 Countries, One Border, and a world of difference  

This weekend I had the chance to spend some time in the three different countries that border the Foz; Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay.  Since I was in the place where these three countries intersect, you'd think there would be less cultural contrast and more similarities due to proximity.  You'd think ... and you'd be wrong.  Going across the border in these three different countries is like stepping into 3 different worlds.
 
Argentina - My first impression of Argentina was not a very good one.  Even though I was only in Argentina for a short period of time, the experience would probably be similar to dropping someone with my personality in the middle of Beverly Hills, CA.  Everything seemed a little over the top and unnecessary.  Even in an Armani suit, I would be still looking for a taxi to the nearest diner and would pay extra if they could take me across the border to somewhere not so darn chic.
 
Paraguay - I've thought about this quite a bit and yet I still don't quite know how to describe my experiences in Paraguay, but here goes ... Free Market Madness - Cuided del Este is a massive free market with all the opportunities and ills that goes with it.  Blocks and blocks of free-market (tax-free) shopping.  It's like a crazed out downtown festival only ten times the size, a hell of a lot less safe, less organized and it would seem that there are as many cars and motorcycles on these tiny streets as there are mobs of people; and all this intermixed in an sea of street vendors.  On the weekend it's easy to lose your friends in the shopping frenzied crowds that fill the streets.  Seriously cheap goods, sometimes imitations, sometimes not, and sometimes, you just can't tell.  God knows where it all comes from and how it gets there.  In fact, I'm sure we probably don't want to know.
 
When walking, keep an eye on your wallet, stay close with your compadres, and if you aren't acquainted with the experience of a lot of people trying to sell you something/anything all at once and/or you don't speak Portuguese of Spanish ... I wouldn't recommend it.  It's shopping madness from the curb vendors to the walking vendors, all in tiny streets full of cars, motorcycles, shoppers and opportunists, and if there is any free space left over it is taken up by glazed-eyed shoppers looking to get cheap stuff.  I sooo wanted to get a picture of it all, but there was no way in hell I was pulling out my camera in that crowd.  I just didn't have the moxi.  The chances of it getting gone were too high.
 
Just crossing the Friendship Bridge in and out of Paraguay would be an act of courage (or stupidity, depending on if you did or didn't know what to expect) amidst never-ending wall-to-wall traffic (maniac drivers), motorcyclists (that are use to weaving in and around cars at top speed in any way, shape or form with no regard for their lives or yours and when that doesn't work chooses to drive the wrong way down a one way street), masses of people on foot, and if that wasn't enough add a50 or more walking vendors trying to sell you anything imaginable (but mostly Pringles potato chips, go figure) as if their livelihood depended on it, which I'm sure it does.  They sell with intent, confidence, aggressiveness and authority.  In fact, you can't tell who is an official information officer and who's not.  And the people that tell you to roll down your window and are truly "official" ... don't believe it.  Don't believe any of it.  Unless you're a local, brave, or just plain stupid, keep your windows rolled up.  Another observation is that no one seems to comprehend the word "no"; no matter what language you say it in.  I recommend escalating barking.  It's more effective.
 
Speaking of holding on to your wallet, in this Free Market shopper's paradise (or hell, depending on your sensibilities) everyone accepts up to 5 different currencies at the current exchange rate.  Real (Brazil), Peso (Argentina), Guarani (Paraguay), Dollars (US) and most recently some people now also take Euro.  But what soon became obvious it that here, dollars rule.  For the best deals, most bang for your buck and the most bargaining power bring dollars.
 
Another thing to watch out for besides losing your wallet (and I won't even say your purse, because if you bring that with you, you're just asking for it.) is to watch out for falsas.  This is counterfeit currency, especially with the R$50 Brazilian Real.  The further you go away from Centro (center of downtown) the more chances of encountering vendors that are unscrupulous and shady.
 
I got to see an actual switch happen right in front of me.  I saw the count, the exchange, and thought it reminiscent of something I'd seen growing up.  My feelers went up, but I couldn't quite nail what bothered me.  Sure enough, a switch had taken place.  My friend, a little more aware, nailed them on it.  Now, if you do get taken, trust me, you might as well let it go, you're not going to win.  It's common for shops to have an armed guard at the entrance with a shotgun (close-range weapon of choice).  My friend (a Brazilian with a law degree) argued his point.  The shop lost a few customers during the argument, customers who immediately saw them as untrustworthy, but in the end, we left the outer shops to Centro less R$50.
 
That's the rub.  On the outskirts of Centro the deals can be awesome or you could get taken for everything you've got.  Don't go unless you're a local, can read the environment and speak the language.  Even then you're probably still gambling with your wallet.
 
Now in Centro (especially in the center of Centro) everything is a little more organized (if anything here can be called organized) and it's a bit more safer; even though if you value something I wouldn't take it with me and after you've made purchases head to your car and put it in the trunk before you decide to do more shopping.  Inside the city the street vendors and curb vendors are wall to wall; just don't get hit by all the cars and motorcycles (remember that everyone is sharing the same street and the streets are small, really small).  Even so the real prizes to be had are inside the buildings located behind the curb vendors.  Just keep walking and look for an opening.  Inside are multi-floored piecemeal malls that sometimes makes you wonder where all this space came from and how do these buildings continue to remain standing.  The interior is full of electronics and high-end items.  Yes, the holy grail of tax-free shopping at the border ... electronics at seriously discounted prices.  Here you will find items for half-price and sometimes a third of what you would pay for them in Brazil.  Even by American standards there were some great deals to be had and the madness doesn't end on the street.  The buying frenzy continues inside and if you want to use the bathroom, it's going to cost you R$2.00.  Just be careful of how much you buy in a day and keep the receipts.  It is usual for cars to get stopped at the border and depending on the (tax-free) purchase limit allowed; you could pay a huge fine for your purchases.  Like most things in life ... it's a game ... you have to play it.
 
What did I get ... well, I got a $300-Olympus 8 Mp camera for $100 US and a nice camera bag for $2US.  That's about it; hey I didn't come to Brazil to spend all my money shopping.  O meus amigos, now that's a different story.  They knew what they were coming for and they planned for it.  Man did  they go all out!!!  OMG ... So much so, they were a little worried about border patrol and possible fines, but when we weren't selected for border check you should have heard the cheers and laughter.
 

Paraguay-02

A woman picking up trash in Paraguay-02

 ***All this economy combined with large numbers of poor people in the area creates a strange environment - feast or famine.  There was plenty of litter and degrees of poverty.  Every block you walked or drove from the center of the city became even more stark and depressed then the one before.
 
Brazil - I enjoyed my brief time or days in Argentina and Paraguay and I plan to explore the countries more at a later time.   It was a most interesting experience of which I'm grateful.  Even so, I found myself re-entering Brazil with an even more appreciation for the South of Brazil's more balanced and relaxed (less stressed) way of being.
 
It will be interesting in the future to see if the rest of Argentina or Paraguay is reflective of what I have experienced at the 3 borders around Foz de Iguaçu.