We cry for you -- Argentina !!

  Buenos Aires, Argentina
Wednesday, February 6, 2002

As we approached Buenos Aires in early morning, we realized this was not an ordinary city. Not since Mexico City have we encountered such a large expense of urban sprawl, the freeways criss-crossed, the apartment buildings, mostly dirty and grey, were endless, and the air was foggy, perhaps from the ocean, perhaps from smog pollution, perhaps both. So "buenos aires" really did not fit the "beautiful air" as its name indicates.

We arrived in the Main Bus Station just north of the city center. The modern bus terminal is the size of an international airport, 3 levels, hundreds of double decker buses parked diagonally, and too many bus companies to count. We were lost just trying to find an exit, never mind trying to find a tourist information booth. We followed our Lonely Planet guide to the nearest metro and headed to our first choice of hotel. 30min later, we found it, but it was out of business. So we walked across the city with our backpacks, and daringly crossed (in 2 minutes according to my stopwatch) the widest street in the world -- Avenida 9 de Julio -- which in my mind should be name Diego Maradona Boulevard in respect of the greatest footballer in the world. We expected the worst as we walked across Buenos Aires, but to our surprise, there were no riots, no police clashing with demonstrators, everything is normal in Buenos Aires. The citizens were just starting the early morning rush hour, it was as if the TV's and newspapers of the world were lying. We felt safe here, perhaps more safe than any other time in our trip. Our second choice of hotel was a good one. The Milhouse was a fun hostel, young crowd, clean, hot showers, centrally located, and cheap. Thanks to the devaluation of the Peso, the price, at US$5/night including breakfast, was the best bargain in the world. We even had a balcony in our old colonial style room, ahhh comfort, we could be spoiled here.



After a refreshing hot shower to clean off our bus smells, we went out to explore this wonderful city. In the business district, where all the major banks and casa de cambio were closed, we exchanged some US dollar cash for the Peso in the black market on a side street. The gentleman had a few thousand Pesos in his pocket, for which we only needed 100 pesos for $50. He got a good deal, as the stock market news didn't look promising. In this proud city of Buenos Aires, where Tango and Football and Leather and Wine produced one the most fascinating cultures in the world, its people were walking with their heads down. We can feel their pain, their lost savings, their job securities vanished, their hopes turned into emptiness. We saw a sign in a hair stylist shop that advertised cash for woman's hair. As we walked through the pedestrian mall of Avenida Florida, the shops were full of goods but no buyers, and everywhere was advertised "Venta Final". By the looks of it, we were one of the few foreigners here, as most of the world's tourist stayed away.

Reluctantly, we tried to enjoy this city as sadness fell on everyone around us. We shopped around, went to see the movie "Jeepers Creepers", and bought some groceries for dinner -- a bottle of fine Argentinean wine, two T-bone steaks, cheese, bread and veggies for $7. We did enjoy our new found fortune. We even tried to look for cheap plane tickets home since our money was getting short and Argentina's economic crises might have saved us from being stranded in South America. The Milhouse hostel, famous for its parties, was in a sober mood tonight.