How to take chicken bus from sunrise to sunset....

Trip Start Oct 10, 2001
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Trip End Feb 19, 2002


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Flag of El Salvador  ,
Sunday, December 9, 2001

We got up at 6am. My stomach behaved okay last night. We walked to the bus station in Esquintla near the central market. It was chaotic. Every bus was full and everyone had multiple sacs and luggages. I guess it was market day and Esquintla was just a transport hub. There were sounds of beauty amide the chaos, people yelling, buses blowing its engines, and we were lost. Finally after enough waiting, we got on the bus towards the El Salvador border. The bus was full, we had to put our backpacks on top of the roof, I hoped it was secured. Every kilometer, someone would get on and some got off, the heavy sac were thrown to the top of the roof and some where brought down, the workload for the man in charge was overwhelming, but the only words you hear from him was "vamos, vamos, dos Quezales por favor". This repetition was done at a relentless pace, much faster than any unionized airport luggage handler.

After few hours of this stop and go, we had to exchange the bus that "actually" goes to the border. It was about noon, the pacific heat and humidity was starting to get to me, and I fell asleep staring at the banana plantation. The pacific coast of Guatemala is famous for its coffee beans, bananas, sugar canes and other agricultural products.

When we finally arrived at the border (Pedro de Alvarado), the Guatemalan official put an exit stamp on our passports, we exchanged some money and walked across the international bridge. By the looks of it, we were the only non-Guatemalan/Salvadorian crossing the border today. The Salvadorian border guard was not as friendly. He was in camouflage and carried a submachine gun. He check our backpack without finding any illegal substance, asked a few questions about where we were going, and let us on our way. The walk between bus stops were long, and our guide book was not up to date (even though it was the latest edition). Finally we meet a nice local gentleman on his bicycle, he showed the bus stop. Sometimes, when you are lost, you truly find good people in this world and in life.

We took the chicken bus for about a hour then had to exchange another bus to La Liberdad. This "bus" was slightly bigger than a full size van, and to our surprise (NOT!) it was full. We had to sit on the floor near the back door on our backpacks. Suddenly a old gentleman got on with his granddaughter and a WHITE GOAT!. I guess on market days, some people still travel by bus with their purchase of livestock.

The sun was beginning to set over the pacific, it was stunningly beautiful. It reminded me of pacific coast Mexico. Unfortunately I didn't have my camera. The Pacific ocean is always more beautiful and peaceful than the Atlantic.

The Lonely Plant said it would take about 2hrs from Esquintla to the border then another 2hrs to La Liberdad. We have been travelling all day, and it was after the sun was hidden behind the horizon that we finally arrived in La Liberdad. This small city by the ocean is a gathering place for oversea surfers looking for some place to chill and surf. It was a long, tired day, fortunately my stomach was behaving okay, little did I know tomorrow would be another adventure.
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