Some days are better than others

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Trip Start Mar 31, 2006 Previous
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  Chiquimula, Guatemala
Thursday, April 27, 2006

Some days are better than others; in fact some weeks could be improved. We left Semuc Champey on a Thursday (19th April) early so we would meet as few trucks on what really was one the of worst roads we had ever driven on. On advice of a couple of volunteers living in G we decided to retrace out steps to Coban on a paved road to avoid the unpaved but shorter route to connect with the main road to Tikal. Seemed like a good idea until we got within a few kms of Coban when we came across a long line of trucks and a few cars all by the side of the road and people milling about as though set for a long wait. Walked up to the head of the line of vehicles to find three road blocks several of which contained huge rocks that could only have been moved with heavy equipment. There were a couple of cars slewed across the road, a rope (being held up to let people on foot pass) and a flag flying. In my best Spanish - involves lots of wild hand signals and contorted expressions - I understood that it was "politico" and could be there until "manana"

ferry at Sayaxche

. So we turned around to tackle the dirt road. I keep saying that roads are the worst we have ever driven, well this was the worst. The map showed it as a National Route but really should have shown it as a cart track. In fact the map we have is absolutely useless: shows none of the minor roads and nothing about road conditions and it was the best we could get. We did finally make it to another paved road but after many hours of bone rattling driving.
We got to a place called Raxruja where we had a drink and the "event" occurred - but before we realized an event had taken place we reached a wonderful Wild West type town called Sayaxche with a ferry reminiscent of those we used in Africa (photo above). Sheila did not want to drive onto the ferry so we swapped and while swapping realized that the rucksack with our passports, driving licenses, camera etc. etc. was not in its usual place. We had left it miles back at the Raxruja pit stop. Turned around, foot flat on the pedal, muttering "no chance of getting it back"..."all your fault"... and other useful things. Sheila clenched her teeth very tightly, crossed all fingers and toes and muttered strange incantations for the whole journey. Reached the place and unbelievably they had it there and refused offers of compensation, Sheila burst into tears and Chris said we were going to stop and spend the night, and it was going to be air conditioned! So after a heavy days driving we had made just 90km on our journey to Tikal

Flores

. Had two very quick beers and a huge meal and fell into bed; as it later proved, a bad thing for Sheila's digestive system. But more about that after Tikal.
We reached Tikal easily by lunch time the next day and pitched our tent in a lovely wide open camp ground and then in the afternoon went to the ruins after most of the tour groups had left. Tikal is magnificent with the huge involved structures rising out of the jungle with lovely birds and spider monkeys fooling around and the distant roars of howler monkeys. Although very hot we did a good three hours up and down the pyramids and again early the next morning - a real highlight.
Then off to Finca Ixabel which is a resort outside Poptun. The finca was lovely and relaxing but Sheila was obviously suffering from something as she could not swallow properly and was eating virtually nothing, even refusing beer, which as most of you know is almost unheard of. We had two nights and then reached Chiquimula just short of the Honduras border and Copan Ruinas where the wheels really fell off. Sheila by this time was clearly suffering so we stopped for the night and much discussion of whether it was just getting upset at losing the bag followed by a huge meal and indigestion or something more serious.
Finally, and very sensibly, we went to see a doctor the next morning and before long Sheila was booked to have an endoscopy early the next morning. So now we really start to worry: will everything be hygienic, what if something terrible is found, are they competent, clean needles? It was all done in a very small doctors room with what seemed a cast of thousands and I was made to watch the video - I chose to sit down thinking that it was safer if I fainted. The doctor said Sheila's esophagus was extremely long so that lengthened the video which really was quite exciting to watch - something out of Star Wars goes miniature

Scene of the crime

. At the end of it all a very sedated Sheila asked when they were going to start the procedure so obviously it did not hurt her. The upshot of all this is that Sheila has an ulcerated esophagus so we are armed with myriad pills and solutions and a very restrictive diet that excludes all alcohol (the pills cost 50% more than the whole procedure and consultation - not like NA; Sheila was heard to mutter something about "drug companies"). As I write this she is sleeping it all off in front of me at a position of 15o, as specified. Although everything was very different from a theatre in Vancouver (where I had the same thing done a few years ago) it all seemed to work and we were very impressed and now have several full colour prints of Sheila's esophagus that we will be using for Xmas cards.
We will tackle the border tomorrow. This day and week have cost us three days but better than having to fly back to Vancouver for something much more serious.

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Tikal

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