Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

• Pagesturning's Profile
• About this blog
• Entry from Panajachel

Trip Start Mar 31, 2006 Previous
Entry Trip End Mar 31, 2007 Next
Entry

  Panajachel, Guatemala
Wednesday, April 12, 2006

Woke up to a cacophony of sounds, mostly birds but the odd village dog and distant trucks grinding up a hill. We have finally put down some temporary roots just outside Panajachel at the edge of Lake Atitlan in a very funky (read broken down but picturesque) campsite ( called Campana) which is quiet and secure, surrounded by lovely trees and directly below a forested hill, and a short walk from the lake.
But before we can relax the tone of our entries we have to describe the last couple of days in Mexico and through the border.
From Mazatlan we drove to Toluca just outside Mexico city and stayed in an excellent motel where the manager gave us detailed instructions for our next day's assault on Mexico city through to Puebla on the other side. We started at 6.30am on a Sunday morning in the pitch dark expecting that roads would be deserted; by 6.45 we were going round in ever decreasing circles in mad traffic (what rush hour must look like I hate to imagine)

Cactus sentinels

. We spent the next 21/2 hrs in the clutches of the ring-road system (Preferico Sur) sometimes on it and sometimes off it; when off it we found taxi drivers the most useful way of getting back on; they were all very helpful and some even guided us back on with their cabs; me driving and Sheila yelling ..."turn right NOW" ... across three lanes of hurtling traffic, what the heck! But suddenly there was a sign to Puebla and the evil system spat us out.
From there on south it was relatively problem free except Oaxaca where we were lost in a diversion that "diverted" but never "reverted". South of Oaxaca the country becomes very beautiful and though dry is exceptionally beautiful (see two pics above). In one little town we stopped to watch a pony turning a grinding wheel to squeeze out a dark brown gooey liquid like molasses that came from the three-day baked base of a sisal plant which in turn was fermented and then distilled into a tequila-like alcohol (chinantla) which we bought and hope to use to keep up our spirits (another couple of pics).
Again we were struck by the number of road-side crosses and realized that Mexicans aspire to buying a fast car so that they can kill themselves in style; even the grannies have machismo; the Pages are the slowest drivers on the road. Do-not-pass signs and double yellow lines are simply an indication to the Mexican driver to use their imagination on what might lie around the next hair-pin bend.
Well after another day traveling we finally reached Tapachula the town before the border. Here we had a surreal night in what we thought was a motel but when we were told that multi-entry to our room would cost 450pesos for the night but if we stayed in our room it would only cost 250pesos we realized we were in a "love" motel. They lock you and your car in behind sliding doors and water and feed you through a little side window; in terms of value it was absolutely the best place we stayed and would do it again (room was huge, air conditioned and gorgeous bathroom and of course completely discrete)

Making Chinantla

.
Next morning off early to cancel our car permit but had forgotten to pay our tourist visas so had to wait two hours for the bank to open. Then to the border unprepared for the hoards of people and touts wanting to help us through Guatemalan formalities; finally against our better judgment we accepted an offer of help (later cost us US$20 but was probably worth it as he took us to the front of every line-up). If you know what to expect it is easy but frustrating, if like us you are a virgin it can be a bit scary but there were several English speakers who gave us valuable advice and at 11.30am we were on the other side Sheila still quaking a bit as being the better Spanish speaker (ha, ha) she does most of the talking although they address all their remarks to me (as befits male head of household).
Guatemala after the barrenness of Mexico was lovely: huge trees, lush vegetation and gorgeous vines interlacing it all; lots of little towns and villages, all bustling and gridlocked. Immediately we climbed steeply (and very, very slowly - a short distance on the map takes forever) and the air rapidly cooled. They had a vicious rain storm here in early October 2005 and the sides of roads and lots of bridges have been lost and they have not nearly fixed it all and the rains start soon - spelling imminent disaster. The drive from the border to Lake Atitlan and Panajachel (nicknamed Gringotenango because of all the displaced expatriates) is often breathtaking and always interesting; sorry our first stop is so civilized but we needed it after seven days of solid driving.
We are now preparing to chill-out until almost comatose for at least five days as its Semana Santa and this is the BIG holiday of the year and so lying low feels like the best strategy..
ps we faied to attach photos this time...will try and figure it out before next time.....

Post your own travel photos for friends and family More Pictures

Mexic in color

Sheila after the G border

Slideshow Print this entry Share Panajachel hotels

Previous Entry Next Entry