Witches and little witches

Trip Start May 25, 2013
Trip End Jul 25, 2013

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Where I stayed
Casa Rosa
What I did
Lago de Catemaco

Flag of Mexico  , Veracruz-Llave,
Tuesday, May 28, 2013

The road road from Alvarado to Lagos de Catemaco is dotted with interesting villages all mostly named Tuxlas.  They sit at the edge of the road and continue till they edge up into cloud forests.  Pity to be rushing through.  Our limited info does include reference to Casa Rosa and it is a pink and blue habbicone  with an open courtyard.  Zakk approves because we end in a room with a TV and a living room 2 bedrooms filled with quaint furniture and cool art.   Certainly seems like it is right out of a Mexican movie set, but the owner is German.  It is unlike any Mexican hotel we've stayed, but certainly like we would envision a Mexican hotel.  Trust the Germans to get Mexico right. 
We arrange a boat tour and zip around the lake in our private tour boat, racing the rain.  We visit lots of places of religious and spiritual and energetic significance, but don't understand much of the tour or sign language.  Our guide keeps discretely pointing at Tiana's acne and making face washing signs, we say no to what we assume is mud facials. Later we realize we had said no to the Bruja's and witches and the local priests blessings.  Catemaco is known to be the special place of witches and little witches.  I'm still wondering what a little witch is and what it has to do with acne. 
The next day Zakk stays home to read and watch Mexican soap operas.  Lake Catemaco is linked or almost linked to a large Lagoon about 8 miles away.  We shared a taxi with a local, and got out at a little village at the edge of the lagoon.  Obviously a tourist Mecca with several buses of school kids and Mexican tourists.  We wandered down the jungle road looking for signs to the playa  and ended up at a eco tourism village co-op.   We were hoping to organize a tour thru the lagoon.  We could hear and see the villagers going about their daily life, but the tourism bit of eco tourism was absent, so we took our selves around the iguana and traditional homes displays and marveled at at the water edge.  The water is crystal clear and seems like a spring and is surrounded by reeds.   The reeds and marsh here are reminisant of Elephant Marsh in Malawi and you can not imagine how the canoes here find the way thru the reeds to find the main lagoon.    We walk back to the village, a pick up carrying maybe 20 passengers and scraping its truck bed along the ground kindly offered us a ride, strangly we refused.  We stopped  for shrimp cocktails and fresh oysters before arranging a boat ride,  collectivo, which means with others.  They seemed to be waiting for us and quite possibly since we had arrived several hours earlier.  Because as we agreed to the price and sat down in the boat ten other people jumped in and away we went.  We headed straight for a village on a spit of sand on the other side of the spit is the Gulf of Mexico and miles of almost deserted beaches.   

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