Chilling Out in the Indian Heat
Trip Start
Jul 15, 2007
1
101
195
Trip End
Jul 16, 2008
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Kumily,
India
Monday, January 7, 2008
I noticed very shortly after our arrival in India that on some level I felt more relaxed than I had since leaving Italy. In Egypt, and to a lesser extent in Jordan, there was always the fear of not having dressed modestly enough (even though I wore "the pants" or my ankle-length black skirt every day). I sometimes wore a scarf on my head, but it didn't cover my face and I saw few other women attired without one. On several occasions, I reached for Jim's hand or rubbed his shoulder in affection, but quickly remembered that those displays are taboo. Having to continually be aware that your actions might be offensive to someone with extremist views about modesty, and whose reaction might be violent, produces a significant level of anxiety.
In South Africa, on the other hand, violence isn't directed at any one group in particular; everyone, black and white, young and old, rich and poor, is targeted. Living in a protected, wealthy area offers only limited protection, as everyone knows someone who has been the victim of a violent crime. The newspapers are filled with stories of home invasions, carjackings, murder, child rape, etc. It seems incongruous with the lovely life the Youngs have created there. Yvette told me that the level of distrust is high-whites are distrustful of the blacks walking slowly past their houses, South African blacks are distrustful of the immigrant Malawians, Malawians are distrustful of the Zimbabweans, everyone is distrustful of the Nigerians, and so on. I found it quite difficult not to smile and say hello to strangers, but I quickly learned that makes you a target. The continual wariness is also very tiring.
India certainly has its extremism and crime, but it has an undeniable sense of tolerance. About 82% of Indians practice Hinduism and believe, according to Lonely Planet, that "earthly life is cyclical; you are born again and again (a process known as samsara), the quality of these rebirths being dependent upon your karma (conduct or action) in previous lives. Living a righteous life and fulfilling your dharma will enhance your chances of being born into a higher caste and better circumstances. Alternatively, if enough bad karma has accumulated, rebirth may take animal form. But it's only as a human that you can gain sufficient self-knowledge to escape the cycle of reincarnation and achieve moksha (liberation)." The deep spirituality of this country is apparent immediately, and I find it humbling to spend time with these people who have done a much better job of figuring it all out than I have.
