Day 67 69 - Ghana, Accra - Beach Party
Trip Start
Nov 09, 2008
1
51
164
Trip End
Jul 02, 2009
Accra, Ghana
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Had a change of plans today. Were originally meant to go to Cape Coast for one or two nights but now going direct to Accra to try secure DRC and Angolan VISA's as there is rumour DRC are closing its borders due to an ebola outbreak. We're hoping that due to the outbreak being in the east we should still be okay to pass through the westside border.
Drive to Accra pretty uneventful, long and hot. Entering the city we were met with traffic jams, roadside sellers with bags of dried polenta (yum - bit like sweet potato crisps) in baskets on their heads. Occasionally we were met with hissing noises. Not too sure what that's about.... if its meant to be offensive or to just grab your attention as they do it to both locals and tourists alike... only our psssting noises are followed with "white man, rich man, white man". They definitely don't seem as friendly in Ghana - nowhere near as nice as the Malians.
So yeah entered noisy, pollution filled Accra where all store names have some religious connotation - "Jesus Loves You Hair Salon", "God's Liquor Store", "Great Jesus Pharmacy" "God 4 U Phones" etc etc. It's really quite funny. Once again it's a city full of old and new where rich meets poor. Shanty towns back onto fancier buildings, markets sprawl along roadsides and the streets turn to dirt off the main road. All in all just another developing city in a state of general disrepair.
One good thing was the airconditioned ShopRight Mall which we headed straight to and would return to a number of times - cinema, fastfood, clothes shops and supermarkets that sold the best steak and pepper pies ever!... well at least in Africa... or Ghana. Mum took off in a taxi to the Nigerian Embassy whilst others collected goodie bags sent from home to the post office - this time returning with smiles as they actually received their parcels.
We stayed at a place called Kokrobite (Big Millies) situated on coast 25km west of Accra. Basically a small dusty fishing village - corrugated iron roof huts/houses, dirt pothole riddled roads, midgies, half finished buildings - the usual thing. It took us 2 ½ hrs to get there from Accra due to traffic. Horrific.
Big Millies is a campground located right on the beach with bungalows, bar, restaurant and bucket showers. Not a bad location but very open so no security, constant people traffic, boats piled on beach and stalls on sand selling bead jewellery, clothes, bags, hats etc. You could probably swim but we chose not to as it seemed pretty dirty. There's also not a lot around so you either stayed in the campground or made the journey into Accra. A girl from the other truck was there when we arrived having hooked up with Damo, an Aussie boy (who else would be called Damo) who owned a beach bar just down the way. I believe she was getting back on the truck in a few days.
No breeze entered the ground whatsoever so stifling hot making near impossible to get to sleep. First night Oliver and I pitched our tent on grass under some trees - seemed like a good idea at the time it being nice n shady and all that. It wasn't until 4am we realised it wasn't. Turns out the trees above our tent acted as singing platforms for bloody roosters. It didn't take long for Oliver to get up and knock one of them out of the branches with a stick. Unfortunately he couldn't reach the others so they continued their calls until we were well and truly up. Not pleasant. We moved into full sun after that.
Suzy discovered some cats then about 20 little kittens so she was in her element. When we returned to ShopRight she stocked up on cat food and worming tablets for them all. Crazy girl but she was happy.
So the reason for staying in/near Accra was to get out Nigerian VISA's which meant a layover of a few days. During that time we drove around Accra, through shanty towns, past the national stadium and parade ground. Suzy and I wondered the streets in search of strapless dresses (one mustn't get tan lines!). Back to ShopRight a couple of times. Jay picked up a slip n slide and water guns - very important on safari. We stocked up on steak pepper pies and maybe a few hidden bikinis and dresses for myself.
Another day Oliver got up early to go to Liberian refugee camp with Murray, Luke and Jamie. Muz, being a professional photographer, often visits refugee camps so had been in touch with the relevant government body and been granted permission to visit. Camp holds about 10,000 people and was located about 25km away. They arrived to be told that there had been unrest in the camp and the rules had changed, meaning they weren't allowed in. Poor Muzza was gutted as he had only spoken to the guy last week to confirm everything. They had no choice but to get back in the taxi and return to Big Millies deflated.
Around the camp we caught up on chores - washing and diaries. There was a table tennis so the boys had a bit of a comp on that with the locals... Oliver winning I'm told. The game of Risk was once again bought with a group taking up seat under one of the pagolas overlooking the beach.
Night times were spent either down the road at one of the half built bars watching football and waiting for change. I tried to watch Friends in one of the pagolas but kept being approached by random locals trying to strike up conversations with me. Dude I'm watching something can't you see? I soon left in a huff saying I was getting my husband... they quickly scurried off in the other direction.
Martin, Lindsay and Sarah stayed in the city to catch a movie. Ended up taking them 3hrs to get back due to dodge taxi which broke down and them being warned not to walk the streets at night. Kristy planned on staying in Accra by herself so she saw another movie then couldn't find hotel so returned to Big Millies around 11ish.. Jamie was harassed at the bar by rather large Aussie lady in her 40's, the other lads leaving him high and dry thinking it was right funny.
On the Friday we had lunch in the restaurant and then simply didn't leave... ahhh memories of Devonshires days. Friday session begun with usual suspects involved - me, Oliver, Suzy, Sam, Josh, Rachel, Sarah, Martin, Barsby, Jamie and S&M. Beers flowed whilst we watched waves roll in and locals go about their business. That night Big Millies hosted a cultural show - acrobatics, fire throwing, juggling, singing, dancing that kinda thing so we watched from up in one of the pagola towers. Boys decided to up the anti so headed off to the bar for vodka burns (nasty shots). From there we wondered up the beach to Bahdoosh Bar - place run by Damo. Lots of people milling about in the sand, dancing, drinking. Teresa stepped in as Luke's wingman as boys on the prowl.
Oliver got someone with the whale joke - always a crowd pleaser. We got there around 10:30 and I called it a night just after midnight. Oliver on the other hand continued on with Clara, Little Kate, Luke, S&M and Chesley till 4am. Ouch.
