Of Going to Nysa (And Other Places By Bus)

Trip Start Feb 08, 2008
Trip End Sep 11, 2009

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Flag of Turkey  , Aydin Province,
Friday, May 29, 2009

True date of visit: May 22, 2009

And, it wasn't Sultanhisar, the town, but rather the ancient site of Nysa, which is located just north--and up hill 3 km--outside of Sultanhisar that was my objective.

Prompting my visit to Nysa was its being cited in John Ash's Turkey, The Other Guide: Western and Southern Anatolia. Ash is a British poet, and his guide is something like a personal travelogue. There is no index nor map(s). Directions are written with the assumption that users are driving a personal or rented car. That is not totally convenient for those of us dependent on public transportation or, in my case, perhaps foolishly over-indulgent walking.

So, in Aydin I got a bus destined for Denizli and headed out of town for Sultanhisar. Here, therefore, a little word about bussing in Turkey.

Most bus terminals in Turkey have a mind-boggling, bewildering array of bus companies. The larger the city, the more bus companies present themselves in long rows of signs and booths. Most of the booths are manned by about six guys, when the work to be done is sufficient for a couple to manage. (But, this is also true of almost all shops in Turkey). It's really intimidating for the inexperienced. And, that's not to mention the touts that waylay the obviously bewildered foreigner.

In the smaller places you are more likely to trust anyone who steps up--or you seek out--to direct you to the next available transport to your desired location. But, in the larger places--Ankara, for instance (Istanbul is another matter)--I usually ignore the touts and walk directly to the departure dock. I walk along the dock until I spot a bus going to a place, or in the direction of travel I want. They all have signs in the front window. Most usually leave on half hour schedules. So there may be different destination sets at the dock on the half hour. I give a sign to one of the guys standing about (probably smoking a cigarette. I spend most of my time on the dock moving away from some guy who has just walked up next to me and lit up), and he puts my gear aboard. Often he will tag your stowed luggage, giving you a "claim" stub--which will usually not be checked at the destination, as everyone crowds around eager to grasp out their luggage, and be off somewhere. Maybe to go someplace and smoke a cigarette.

Then, if there is time, I might go in to the ticket booth and get a ticket. Sometimes you can just pay the attendant on the bus.

Bus travel in Turkey for the most part is really great. It's cheap, the buses almost all seem clean and new. And, in the west particularly, they serve drinks and little cakes. No alchohol. Tea, most certainly, water, Nescafe, sodas, or nectars (sugared fruit drinks). In the summer, some companies, little bitty dixie cups of ice cream.

I digress here because of the visit to Nysa, there is not much to say.

I got off the bus for Denizli at the town of Sultanhisar. Walking up through the town a market was in progress, so I bought some fruit and nuts.

A little way on, going slowly in the heat, a guy on a motorcycle stopped after passing me, waiting for me to catch up, and offering a ride.

Well, here are some pictures of Nysa. I walked and hiked around for two or three hours; then went back to Aydin.

I think it was at Nysa that I first "experiened" this strange plant. It's not so much pretty as impressively large. It also gives of a slight odor most unpleasant. I believe I have somewhere in the past read about it. The odor, I think, is of rotting flesh. It has evolved this in order to attract flies. Not being a biologist, nor indulgent of foul odors, I didn't hang around one of these plants long enough to confirm this.

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whatsnew on

The picture of the guy on the bus bought back memories. I got the bus from Ortaga to Antalya. It was an interesting trip ( including a police search and collecting IDs- lucky i had my drivers licence with me although i dont know what they made of that - I was the only foreigner on the bus )and I was on my own! The mountainous areas were interesting- I could not describe it as beautiful but more interesting. Your comment about the people not surviving but the concrete lives on - yes what does that say? Poignant question- maybe better not to think too deeply about that one!?

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