Eskisehir: Waiter, there's a Tomb in the Kitchen!

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  Eskisehir, Eskisehir, Turkey
Friday, December 19, 2008

Following a more or less "domestic" week in Ankara during the Kurban Bayram (with nothing more eventful than spending some 9 hours one day in the kitchen, trying to get I. to finish a plate of food he'd prepared), I've hit the road again. This stop is Eskişehir (Old City), about three hours west northwest of Ankara. In Eskişehir I am lodging with a member of a travelers' social network of which I am a member.

This member, Tamer, by name, speaks English, teaches English, and has a small business selling educational publications. I had informed him of my arrival time, and by his offer expected him to meet me a the bus station. But, he was not there.

I got off the bus, put on my jacket, and was prepared to go on into the city and find a hotel

Tamer With Some of His Students

. Then, a few steps on Tamer called me on my cell phone. He had been detained on business, and gave me instructions to the city center tram stop at which he was awaiting me.

Outside the bus station is the terminal tram stop. I  went to the turn style to find I needed an electronic ticket card. The attendant pointed to a kiosk a few yards away. I got back to the turn style just as a tram was pulling up. I write such quotidian detail because I keep being amazed at the blessings of the Turkish Travel Pixies in the timings--at least in my case--that makes travel in Turkey such a wonder.

And, while I am at it, the tram in Eskişehir is probably pretty new. It certainly is quiet, smooth and clean. Really, about the most impressive I've ever ridden. Later in this entry I will tell more of Eskişehir's efforts to upgrade the civic life.

After meeting me at the tram stop Tamer walked me to his and his wife's apartment. We walked along a section of the tree-lined pedestrian mall that very attractively parallels a river that snakes through the heart of the city. It must really be nice in the fair weather season.

A Boy Scout, A Science Teacher, A Travel Agent

In the evening Tamer had four Turkish Air Force non-commissioned officers to the apartment for English lessons. These fellows were career non-commissioned officers, studying for advancement opportunities. They paid for lessons from their personal resources. Most students of English in Turkey are explicitly studying, whatever subject, for the purpose of passing competitive university entrance examinations. The emphasis is therefore on reading comprehension, not conversational and speaking objectives. That's not to say that they can't utter a word, but speaking is not the primary objective.

On Saturday I accompanied Tamer on his drive some 46 km west to the small town of Bözüyük, where he holds two classes in the morning. In this case the students were attending for pre-university entrance exam preparation (June '09). As these are both Saturday and Sunday classes, that means that these adolescent students are attending classes seven days a week. Perhaps not all day long, but still . . . . In both cases, after a some preliminary action, Tamer left the room, leaving me alone with the students. He left so as to encourage them to loose self-consciousness and seek conversational exchange with me. This was not necessarily pre-arranged, but I was fine with it. Most were girls, after all. Much of it amounted to me showing pictures on my laptop of my travels in Turkey

The Man (on the right) and His Business

.

After returning to Eskişehir Tamer asked one of his young assistants (with a friend) to drive me to the bus station, the idea being for me to get a bus to the Phrygian Valley where there are some significant archaeological remnants of the Phrygian civilization. They of King Midas legend.

But, it was becoming clear to me that due to the lateness of the day, the overcast darkness, and, actually the uncertainty of public transportation, that it was a fool's errand. And, I was beginning to become agitated in my own mind with others' truly sincere efforts to accommodate my desires, when I could just make more efficient use of my time if left to myself. But, how wrong I was.

We passed a museum and I thought to tell them of the lateness issue, and suggested they just take me to the museum. And this was agreed.

The young fellow parked the car inside the edge of a large project the city was undertaking to rejuvenate the old Ottoman quarter, at the periphery of which the museum was situated. I knew where the museum was (about a block away), but for some reason the young lad turned into a single occupied establishment to ask a question

Don't Judge the House by the Cover

.

The business turned out to be a travel agency (I think). We three were bid to enter, and sit for tea and conversation. And cookies, and nuts, and candies, and vegetables. And later--for me--wine.

There were, I guess, six employees: the husband and wife principals, and four other young office workers, in this very small cozy office. The gentleman presided. He announced that he was also a science teacher, and a boy scout leader. And when I sought to take his picture he insisted on running to don his scout hat.

After some refreshment and conversation (he with my two companions, in Turkish) we were to be taken on a tour of some of the restoration projects in this old Ottoman quarter. But not before pictures in front of the office.

One of our first stops was a tea house. There were a couple groups of women. And by herself, presumably the daughter of one at a computer. Out of curiosity I stepped around to see what she was engaged with. She had just clicked to begin about the most fascinating web pages I have ever seen

What the Young Miss Saw

. I copied down the address and couldn't wait to see it on my computer. I would recommend you check it out yourself:

http://www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk/blogon/mtvideobox.php?video_id=78

Other highlights were: A visit to the new Meerschaum Museum. The Eskişehir region is the locus for this singular substance. We usually think of Meerschaum (it means 'sea foam' in German, I learned) pipes. But local craftsmen carve it into all sorts of items. Similar to what people in Asia and Africa perform with ivory. (Only, no elephants need be slaughtered for the material).

Next was "the house with a tomb in the kitchen." I regret that I didn't get the "back story" to that. The house was occupied by an ancient woman so physically limited that I could not prompt her into the kitchen. She may have been serving as a resident guide for tourists. I don't know. In any case, that one has caused me much personal amusement.

We visited another Ottoman house, and met the occupant, the current resident in a line of family living in the house since 1717

In the Meerschaum Museum

. The city's renovation project was one of exterior appearance only. The interiors were left to the occupants' well-worn discretionary comfort.

Our last stop was the Osmanli Evi, or Osman House, a restored "mansion," now a restaurant.

On the return to the tourism office we visited some of the commercial shops where meerschaum objects are made and sold to the public. Our guide, a figure quite well acquainted with the local folk, stepped us into the back rooms to have brief chats with the proprietors/artisans, and learn some more of the meerschaum story. One of these businesses has a website with product samples (including erotic), and some background history and explanation: http://www.meerschaum-whitepearl.com/

Finally, in the dark, on the way back to the office, the sight of a lone craftsman in his shop, carving a soon-to-be meerschaum pipe.

The walking tour was revealing. Not only to me, but to my two young Eskişehir residents. I got as much enjoyment by being the agent for that as for my own serendipitous enlightenmen

Back at Tamer's I was able to persuade the other four of my desire to return to the Osmanli Evi and treat them all to a dinner. It was simple, but met the setting, and was very good. We were having a good time. But, when Turks see you pointing a camera, they very seriously pose.

Post your own travel photos for friends and family More Pictures

One of the Larger Pipes	See. A Tomb in the Kitchen	Our Home for 291 Years	Alone at His Craft
At Dinner in the Osmanli Evi

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