A Day at the Battlefields
Trip Start
Feb 08, 2008
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Trip End
Sep 11, 2009
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Kavak,
Çanakkale Province,
Turkey
Sunday, May 25, 2008
I headed out of the very small town. There was a high hill around which the coastal road passed on the way to the turn-off. Or . I could try that dirt road short cut on the near side.
Up the road only about a quarter of a mile it ended at the gate of a military reserve. So I thought I would try the next best (to me, mind) thing, and go over the hill. I'm terrible at guessing heights and distances and such, but, perhaps 200 feet this hill appeared. I started to walk up through a farmer's field that rimmed the military fence. When the up-sloping field came to an end, I was bushwhacking through a crumbly ground and not too close undergrowth.
At about the crest I found a dirt road, probably a fire road. I followed that downhill in the general direction of Anzac Cove. That implies direction, not proximity. I saw cows and goats ahead. Presently, through some trees I spotted the herdsman. From his posture I assumed he was urinating. So I backed off keeping some trees between us, and waited a couple of minutes. Then I made a small indirect approach to him. He greeted me with a handshake. Though sketchily communicated, he assurred me I was on the right track, and to just keep heading down the road.
It wasn't too far down along that road that a rather serendipidous thing happened. There in the middle of the woods, lying in the dirt of the road was a program booklet form the April 15, 2008 Turkish memorial services at the battlefields!.
Booklet Found on Dirt Road in Far Yonder Woods
And it contained a couple of maps of the specific area to which I was headed. Just then I wasn't in the map range, but after walking several kilometers on the highway I was able to sync up with the landmarks.Once I got to Anzac Cove I walked along it to about the center. There, no people were close, and there was a slight screening from the road, on which were occassional passing tour buses, I went for a swim. The water, I thought, was just slightly cooler than bath water.
A little further along the road there was a spur road heading up. On the map this was marked graphically with little footprints. So, up I went. Before reaching the crest, upon which is the one-way tour route, the dirt road passed a couple of the small grave yards of the Western Allied fallen. And of course, as one climbs higher, the whole aspect of the challenge becomes stronger.
The road then continues up to the highest peak of the penninsula, where Ataturk had his command post. There are more memorial grave yards, and remnants of the trenches of the Allied troops and the Turkish defenders. They literally were just on either side of the one lane road. The trenches were separated by only about 10 yeards. At times the enemies threw cigarettes and candy to one another. Then, I guess, went out and killed each other.
It was a Sunday and there were tour buses aplenty, almost exclusively Turkish tourists.
After having an ice cream and some water, I headed down. My feet really hurt and I just had to hitchhike. However, by this time it was getting on in the afternoon, and I could see the place clearing out. I didn't try the buses as they seemed all private groups. And the cars seemed all full of families. So I figured I'd better walk, try and get back down to the main road and count on more traffic.
But, within a mile or so a fellow pulled over. He was a vendor from the modest kiosk area at the top. He didn't even look at me as I got in, merely said something in French, which I thought amusing. And, after picking up a cohort at a lower kiosk stand, and securing it, the two fellows drove me back to Eceabat.
From Eceabat I took a mini bus the half hour north to the town of Gelibolu for a better selection of accommodation, food; and ferry service in the morning. Checked into a hotel, washed up, and then went to one of the harborside restaurants for a fish dinner at the end of a long, tireing day.
