Trip Start Jun 05, 2006
37Trip End Aug 22, 2006
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It was at this moment that I realized they were not in fact dogs, but wild goats from the nearby cliffs.
On my return walk to the hostel, a potbellied American man decked out in home-team apparel and wraparound shades (at night, no less) gestured boisterously at me, asking "Hey, how do you say 'hello' in Turkish? It's shalom, right?"
"No, actually it's merhaba"
Back at my empty hillside hostel, overlooking the wide expanse of deep black ocean and the busy grid of lights down below, I learned from an e mail that Beth was heading back en route to Turkey. Some unfortunate business at her volunteer workcamp in Montenegro led her to a wild detour up to Belgrade, and then back through Bulgaria, finally returning to the comfort and chaos of Turkey. As I sat there picking burrs and brambles from my threadbare clothes (from an accidental detour of my own earlier in the day, falling into a sea of thorns on the side of some cliff in search of the Lycian tombs), I corresponded with her. We settled on a plan to rendezvous at the treehouse-town of Olympos the following day.