Full Moon Madness

Trip Start Nov 17, 2007
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17
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Trip End Feb 28, 2008


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Where I stayed
OK Bungalow
(Ko Phangan hotels)

Flag of Thailand  ,
Thursday, January 24, 2008

It's the world's most famous free beach party, each month cramming usually 10,000 or more onto a strip of beach little longer than 2km, and little wider than a highway to dance under the full moon for one night of utter madness. Scores of bars litter the beach of Haad Rin with doors flung open to revellers, all with a bucket filled with a gallon of half spirits and half red bull in their hand, who pound the sand with their feet to sounds of drum & bass, psy-trance, reggae or plain ol' cheesy commercial house. This is the place where Hari Krishna turned into a bad boy. I've been looking forward to this party for months and it doesn't disappoint with great music, great people and an atmosphere unrivaled.

We arrived on the island a few days earlier, and having scoped out the place decided the best place to stay was on the West side of the island. It's cheaper here, and despite not being close to Haad Rin still puts us well positioned to get to the beaches in the north or to the party. It's a fair hike in a not-too comfortable overnight bus from the south of Thailand to get here, so if you can book ahead the train would be a better option to get from Satun to Surat Thani, and the short connecting bus ride to the ferry terminal that takes you to the island. A lengthy morning search showed the most popular places full 3 days before the party, but OK Bungalows eventually took us in at just 400 Baht per night for the three of us. That's dirt cheap for this time of year; a bungalow beside the waterfront, a cool under-discovered beach bar and Mama, who runs the place is the sister of the mayor of the Island so we're feeling pretty safe here for a few days. The only thing it's lacking is a good beach, though the lagoon makes for a good morning dip.

Nitan, Megan and I hire scooters for a couple of days at 200 Baht a pop, to get around the island and find the best sandy spots. The waterfalls you can see on the map are incredibly picturesque - in the postcard photo - and little more than a dribble in the dry season now. The elephant sanctuary was rather disturbing and a place to steer clear of - the elephants appear very poorly treated, being chained up to a tree unless they are taking tourists for a ride. We went snorkeling in the north west corner for a day, beside Horse Island which has a sand bridge you can cross to the island's cafe with water up to your waist at high tide, and not get your feet wet at the low mark.

But it's the full moon party that brings people here. It's incredible fun boogieing amongst the fire jugglers and glow-painted dancers with the travelling party people, although with stories abound of tourists having their pockets emptied by thieves (or worse) we keep some wits about us. By 11am the next morning I have nothing left to give, and it's time to head home to sleep, but I am happy to get my stayed-till-sunrise badge, and we all leave the island the next day for Bangkok in a jovial, if still rather tired mood.
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