This is an account of the action packed 10 days sailing northwards through the central islands of Vanautu on the first of our three tall ship voyages here.
18 Aug 2003
Here we are once again, another voyage and the ship is a busy place! We will be traveling north through the islands of Vanuatu from Port Vila to Santo.
During our four-day layover in Port Vila before commencing this next trip, our port anchor was taken ashore to be welded. On the 18th we had a busy morning with the buying of stores, the pickup of VCs and general ship tidy, but also went alongside Star Wharf to collect the 400kg anchor and fill up with water. There was a congregation of locals sitting on the side of the ship, around our mooring lines and alongside on the wharf watching the on goings of the ship. Once we finished lunch and had crew introductions, we motored towards Havannah harbor for our evening anchorage.
After breakfast our keen VCs were introduced to the basics in sail handling and had the opportunity to climb aloft. We set the mainsail, started the windlass to heave the anchor and set the jibs for a sail off anchor towards Sulua Harbor. Arriving after sunset, the island looked stunning with the glow of the moon and stars lighting the coconut palms and waves crashing on the beach. Wednesday the 20th of August gave the chance for snorkeling off Cook's Reef and a lovely breeze for sailing! With an average of seven knots, and clear open skies the ship glided into Port Sandwich of Malekula just after 0200 hrs.
August 21st, wow almost through another month! A wood-collecting brigade was sent ashore this morning; we would be having a BBQ on Awei Island, where there is no firewood available! After anchoring, numerous outriggers were alongside asking if we needed any fruit or vegetables. Thea and I managed to trade rice and flour for a large bunch of green bananas.
Next thing we knew what seemed like half of the village, were paddling around the ship with kumara, carvings and papaya. We traded tinned meat, pasta and sugar for some fresh fruit and vegetables! Later in the evening as we piled in the dinghy to go ashore, the volcano on Ambrym was glowing in the distance, what a sight! After the food was gobbled up, some locals joined us on the beach and brought with them their string band! It was the same beat over and over just with different lyrics, even jingle bells was sang, but we danced in the sand and enjoyed every minute of their playing!
In Banam Bay, we were taken ashore and led into the village to see traditional Vanuatu dancing. The men wore penis sheaths and a bark-type belt to hold on their costume, while the women only wore a grass skirt. The men danced to the beat of a drum and the jingle of the seeds they had wrapped around their ankles, it was very noisy and dusty, but what a show! The children were all too eager to give thumbs up and pose for pictures! The following morning there was an hour and half walk through the jungle to swim and shower in a spectacular waterfall before motor sailing to Ambrym Island.
(See picturesof 2002 visit here )
Sunday the 24th of August, early call at 0500 hrs this morning so that we could eat and be ashore to begin our ascent up Mount Marum. Sixteen of us were brought on a four-hour hike through the jungle, along a lava plane and over boulders to the top of Ambrym Island. On of the world's most accessible volcanoes bubbling away in a crater approximately 1.5km across!
Marita and I were the last group to leave, with our guide, Jonas, we walked at a nice and easy pace and made it to the top just as the smoke and cloud was clearing. Because the wind was quite strong, the smell of sulphur and black dust blew in tornado like swirls, and only allowed us to stand on the rim for a few minutes. We took as many pictures as Mother Nature allowed and began our descent, joining the others for our picnic lunch! Fraser and Mikkel joined Marita and I on our trek back to sea level and had a quick journey down, only stopping a few times to take photos of the wonderful jungle. Once thanking our guides and bidding farewell to the villagers, we jumped off the rocks into the cool ocean. I lay floating in the water not moving a muscle, man was I stiff! Back on board a string band provided pre dinner entertainment, an excellent way to wind down after a long day!
On Monday morning, Daniel, Dan, Frank and Joel scaled Mount Marum and were fortunate enough to have a clear view of the inferno, meanwhile a group of six local boys accompanied us to the hot water beach, a couple of miles down the coast,where we soaked away our aches and pains. As we dug into the black sand, it bubbled and the volcanically heated water raised the temperaturea few more degrees, it was an awesome experience!
Tuesday morning we motor-sailed northwest towards Norsup on the north east side of Malakula, where we would unload medical supplies that we offered to transport from Port Vila. (This for the Malakula Medical Relief Trust, the Auckland based charity aiming to assist the people the people of Malakula, Epti, Ambrym and Pentecost with fundamental medical services).
This voyage we had an official half way ceremony for Emil and Syd, very exciting to be half way through the trip, but a bit sad as well because we only have a few more weeks with Captain Jim!
Thursday 28th - having arrived off the Aore Resort at Santo we bid goodbye to the departing voayge crew and prepare for the the next voyage - northward to the Banks Islands!
Noreen.
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