Left Monday 26 Nov to drive up to Cavnic, in the Maramures region of northern
Romania. Known for wooden churches, ornate carved wooden gates, plinka
(homemade hooch). And you can spit and hit Ukraine. Cell phones pick up Ukraine
system.
One of the wooden churches visited was built in 1364 (yep, that is 1364 not a typo).
Churches built without nails - used mortis and tenon joints and wooden pegs. Painted
on the inside, although since most lack heating (still), paintings are not in the best of
conditions. Many are open to visitors, although you have to know where to go in the
village to find the person with the key. Luckily, I traveled with a Romanian that was
able to ask for directions. I never would have been able to manage without someone
with me that spoke Romanian. Still no heating in churches - you're there to worship
god, not be comfortable. There are benches for older people to sit on. But in
Romanian Orthodox church -you stand. There are some Roman Catholic and Greek
Orthodox, where you sit, stand, sit, kneel, stand, etc. I would think in this cold
weather, it would be best to have the people moving about just to keep warm.
One of the cemeteries visited was relatively new - but with an unusual tradition.
Maramures region is a wood culture. In the 1930's, a local carver started to create
intricately carved crosses, painted blue (representing soul going to heaven), with
humourous inscriptions about the person. There is a likeness of the person, usually
relating them to their work. Interesting cemetery, but people packed in there so
closely, I preferred the more traditional cemetery with trees and more space in
between. Even, or I should say especially for eternity, my own space. Guess why
that's why I'm going for cremation. Infinite space.
I was told, but thought I just misunderstood the first time, that people here will buy
not only their grave site, but their grave marker and have it placed. But no, no, no.
See photos. Inscription usually "Here lies (insert name, date of birth) Rest in Peace".
Nothing like being prepared. Noticed it in several cemeteries. Of course, I would find
it odd to see my name on a gravestone (regardless of my preference for cremation). I
wonder if these people visit their graves beforehand? What if you decide you don't
like the space or who you're next to? My favorite - dual marker for two born in 1925,
with date of death 20(blank, blank).
Plinka. Homemade pear or plum brandy. In the subtropics, I'd say it would put hair on
your chest. Here, I think the kick of the drink is absorbed into the body, just to keep
you warm. No energy from the drink left to put hair on your chest. Any way, my chest
isn't getting hairy yet. I'll keep drinking the plinka. Interesting think is, there will be
a fully formed, whole pear or plum in a wine bottle. The bottle is put around the
fertilized flower back in spring, and the fruit develops within the bottle. Preparing for
my winter hooch to keep warm, that I can understand.
I was told that even for among Romanians, the joke about Cavnic (the place I stayed)
was that it was where the hawks put on the brakes and turned around. Really lovely
area. Cold. Did I mention cold? One night out the local ski hill. Never having been on
skis, I went to the tubing run. Not very long run; 2 minutes climbing up, 45 seconds
going down. I had on my ipod "Carribean playlist" of Beach Boys, Jimmy Buffet, Harry
Belafonte, Surfin Sarfaris. You sit in an innertube that has a bottom. But let me tell
you that the bottom doesn't do that much to keep your bum off of the snow/ice.
After 30 minutes, my bum was frozen. I think it took 2 hours to thaw out. Even with
plinka and plenty of hot wine.
Friday 30 Nov back in Brasov. Where to next? I have ideas, but not sure. Not France.
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