Lares Trek to Machupicchu
Trip Start
Jun 01, 2008
1
14
22
Trip End
Jul 27, 2008
Machu Picchu,
Sacred Valley,
Peru
Sunday, June 29, 2008
Day 1 we left the hotel at Cusco after packing our bags (and yes, we did keep our duffles to the 7kg limit but stashed some stuff in our daypacks as well). A 6 oīclock start saw us head to Calca in the Sacred Valley where we checked out a local bakery. Talk about hard work, mixing, kneading and rolling all the dough by hand. The rolls were cooked in a traditional wood oven and only took about 5 minutes to bake - taste....sensational! We each bought 5 soles worth of rolls which materialised in the form of a shopping bag full each (not all for us). Then on to the local fruit, veg and offal (okay alot of traditional pork, beef and chicken cuts but our guide Lucho pointed out the real delicacies - brains, guts, and other assorted charmers). Funny - we've stopped eating chicken and even fish since we've been here. Maybe it has something to do with the total lack of refrigeration.......
Children in a local Andean village
.Anyway, picked up a couple of walking poles at the market and then headed to Lares via an Incan site - some storehouses and terraces. At this stage we were happy because we had seen ZERO other gringos or tourists. Nice! Via a very dodgy road (vertical drop offs, potholes, meandering animals and children) we made our way to the beginning of our trek - nice spot near a stream - where we were told we were going to have lunch and then head off.
Out came the table, chairs, tablecloth etc etc and we proceeded to sit down in the middle of nowhere and have a 3 course meal which was perfectly prepared and presented. Talk about bizarre. Our chef was a master! We also met our porter/horseman (Thomas) as well as some of the local kids. After filling up we were off - uphill....and uphill.....and, you guessed it...uphill! Beautiful Andean scenery unfolded as we climbed from 3600m up to the 4200m campsite. On the way we walked through Andean villages - very few tourists are seen in these areas, maybe 6 a fortnight, so we felt priviledged to see a glimpse of the realities of life in the Andes. We have to say these people were incredibly poor but seemed amazingly happy. The kids all had frostbite on their faces but were wandering around in barefeet or sandals. They donīt have fires at night (thatīs because there are no trees around much at this altitude to get wood to burn). Their life is simple but fulfilling through their sense of community and willingness to help each other.
Gave out bread rolls to some of the kids - see photos! Then on to our campsite through herds of llamas and alpacas which just roam around
Llamas at the top of the Andes
. Camp comprised 2 tents plus a cooking/dining tent - and no-one else (not a single person). Another 3 course meal and an early night as we were knackered after our climb. The temperature was freezing and our hired sleeping bags were not really up to scratch so even with down jackets, 2 fleece layers, shirts and thermals we still had a cold night. All this excacerbated by the fact that we couldnīt breath well in the high altitude and we both have a head cold!Up at 6am the following morning greeted by Thomas with a cup of coca tea.....this is the life! Then breakfast and onward up the mountains again. Talk about a climb. It was really hard work...20 steps and then a break as we were so short of breath and our hearts were pounding. Weīve never felt so unfit!! Anyway, Lucho was great and gave us plenty of breaks but we felt so inadequate when the cook, Thomas and our 3 porter horses passed us at a run after packing up camp! After about 3 hours of solid climbing and rock scrambling uphill we finally made it to the first pass 4600m. Views were awesome and we felt elated. Then downhill for a while and then up again to the second pass at 4620m. Took lots of llama and alpaca photos as well as photos of the glaciers, moutains and lakes around us. The scenery was amazing.
Downhill then, to our lunch spot (yep, table, chairs, 3 course lunch.........) through more Andean communities and dished out more bread rolls to the kids but also some maths books which Luchoīs mum had sent to these children (she is a teacher). Got to our campsite at around 5pm with Pam feeling sick (maybe from the altitude). Camped in a local village, played soccer with the kids, had dinner and went to bed around 7.30pm....early!
Nic and Pam at MP
Next day, awoke to the sound of pigs snorting outside our tent plus Thomas breaking in with coca tea. Pam is feeling better (good news). Breakfast was pancakes with caramel plus a drink made from milk, apples and quinoa (grain) - sensational! Then on and uphill again to some pre-Incan ruins at Pumamarcha. Had a good look around and then headed on to the town of Ollantaytambo. Saw lots of Incan terraces and learned alot about Incan agricultural practices from Lucho (very knowledgeable). Got into Ollantaytambo at about 11am and saw the first tourist since the beginning of our trek (amazing) had an early lunch and then caught the train to Aguas Calientas - a bizarre town close to Maccupicchu (MP) built basically for tourists. Trains are the only way to access this town and it is almost entirely built around the railway (literally you can be sitting at a cafe and have the train run with 2 feet of you on your seat!). The town is very expensive as it is totally catering to the needs of tourists.
Needless to say we were looking forward to a hot shower......not to be at the MP Hostel.....Cold water, leaking toilet etc etc so we werenīt thrilled but never mind...maybe a good coffee would save the day. Headed out in search of a cappucino, found a cafe which said they could do the deed and proceed to serve us with a bizarre concoction of milk, caramel, coffee and cream ....very odd and calorific...and at 22 soles for the 2 drinks bloody expensive as well
The steep climb up Huaynapicchu
! Still later we had a great meal overlooking the main square with live Andean music - panpipes etc.. the whole experience. And beer of course (1.1 litre bottle for 10 soles...3.50...we were happy)!Next morning up early for the pilgramage to MP. Caught the bus at 5.30am and were there for the gates to open at 6am with a bucket load of other punters. Lucho was still with us as our guide which was brilliant. Anyway, what can we say about this place...itīs just incredible....just like the photos...picture perfect. Had a look around the site for a couple of hours and registered to climb Huaynapicchu - the mountain which you can always see behind MP. Took us 40 minutes to do the climb which in some places was almost vertical. Donīt do it if you get vertigo - in places you have an 18inch wide stair, nearly vertical and with a straight drop off (no barriers). Sensational views so well worth the climb.
After 'doing' MP it was back down to Aguas Calientas, train to Ollantaytambo and then bus back to Cusco. We have to say that the Lares trek was awesome...just us, our team, llamas, local communities and a real insight into Andean life. Just what we were looking for.
Anyway, enough chat. Weīre back in Cusco and tonight we have the South AMerican soccer league final - Liga de Quito (Ecuador) vs Fluminense (Brazil) so we have to find a bar to watch it. Go LIGA!!!!!!!
Adios
nic & pam
