Red Earth and the Black Stump

Trip Start Jun 22, 2007

Trip End Ongoing

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Flag of Australia Griffith, Australia
Thursday, July 12, 2007

Today we headed north toward Goolgowie. The countryside was interesting. Near to Griffith we pass orange groves and vineyards. A bit later there are sheep grazing - not a lot of these, but one or 2 farms with sheep. From then we have crops of some sort - unfortunately I have to admit that as a city-person I have no idea of what various crops look like, and these have only be planted in the last few weeks, have shot up due to the rain - they are just above the ground. I know they will need a lot more rain very soon, as the last lot only soaked in a few cm. But today was another sunny day with no sign of rain at all. I talk to anyone I meet and ask about the rain, and they all say they have had some, but desperately need more and soon.

Running further north we encounter Mallee like country - short stunted multi trunked gums - mallee scrub. Kms of it and the dirt gets redder and although not officially outback, you can see we are getting out that way

Black Stump Memorial Barbecue

. We come to Goolgowi and I decide to fill up with petrol although I have nearly a half tank. This is not the place to run short - it is over 100km to the next petrol so better safe than sorry.

From Goolgowi we head further north to a lovely little town of Merriwagga. It comprises a few houses, a pub, and post office/store and huge wheat silos and steel storage sheds on the railway line. It has a very well kept public park in the center of the main street. At one end there are several plaques celebrating early settlers, a very well serviced public loos - clean and equipped with toilet paper and hand towels - puts some of our own public loos to shame. In the center are the war memorials, and then at the other end are the monuments to the Black Stump - this is one of the several towns which lays claim to the original Black Stump. This one dates from an early story about a bullocky who was out looking after his bullocks when his wife tried to cook over an open fire - her dress caught fire, and when the bullocky returned he found his wife looking like a black stump. A bit gruesome, but that's the story.

All in all this is just a beautiful little town - so typically Australian, in fact all day today, the overwhelming experience was Australian landscape

Lunch in Rankins Springs

. There is something unique in the Australian countryside. Having traveled the countryside in several countries including USA, England, Canada, Mexico, China and others, there is no way you could mistake them for the Australian landscape.

From Merriwagga we retraced our footsteps to Goolgowi and then headed east along the Western Highway toward West Wyalong. We went as far as Rankins Springs - another small town - used to be a rail terminal but obviously the line has been closed for some time. The town has a pub and a store, and a minute caravan park, but strangely, 2 motels. The caravan park was what you might call basic. We had lunch in the small rest area which had nice grass and trees and picnic tables - it was quite warm in the sun.

Heading back west along the Western highway, we turned to the south along Rankins Springs Road toward Griffith. A slight diversion down a dirt road to the Cocoparra National Park was a bit of a fizzle, and soon we were back to entering the outskirts of Griffith. We explored the airport (2 direct flights by Rex from Melbourne each day and about 5 from Sydney). We also found a speedway which interested Ted. From there to the visitor center elicited (after several phone calls)the name of a person who may be able to provide information on the speedway meetings (I have to once again comment on how helpful the volunteers are in these visitor centers)

Me and the Black Stump

. When Ted met the man concerned, this really turned to be of little use because the club has no regular meetings.

Back to the van and tonight we had Vivienne's recipe veggie soup - throw every veggie you have in the fridge in - thank heavens I decided to keep the Little Oscar (small blender) in the van, as the soup turned out very nice and quite filling.

Time now to plan the next few days food menus because tomorrow has to be supermarket shopping day. Will try to get back to an internet facility one more time before we leave here, as our next stop may not have any facilities at all, being quite a bit smaller than here.