Trip Start Oct 08, 2009
Trip End Nov 13, 2009

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Flag of Nicaragua  ,
Wednesday, November 4, 2009

We had a pretty good night yesterday. We went searching for food around
7 pm, and boy did we find it. Though we were planning on going to a
restaurant, we ended up getting distracted by a lady frying up poposas
on the sidewalk. (You know how birds are attracted to shiny things? We
are, similarly, attracted to anything that looks fried and delicious.)
They were one of our favorite things that we've eaten on the trip so
far. Pupusas (we think that's how you spell it) are two fried corn
tortillas (but thicker) with chicken and cheese on the inside. Hard to
describe, even harder to imagine how good they were. And they were only
50 cents!  We ate several. Having finished our delightful meal, we
decided it was time for a beer. We headed to the Gringostreet we had
walked down earlier, figuring it was our best and safest bet. We
managed to find one cafe that actually had a fair amount of Nicas at
it, as well as live music, so we sat down. Pretty soon, a breakdancing
crew came and started performing in the street for us. (And I love
watching live dancing almost as much as I love food and almost as much
as Teddy loves beer.) They were incredible, doing flips off each other
and bending themselves into ridiculous pretzels. They even had two
really cute little boys of about 7 who were doing some amazing stuff.
When they came around asking for donations, you can bet we coughed it

Then, walking down the street, were Darren and Nicola, the couple that
we have seen absolutely everywhere. We couldn't believe it. They were
pretty shocked, too, and we decided we simply must sit down over a
beer. It was great fun chatting with them and the other couple they
were with. They are going to be in Argentina when Teddy is, so he might
be able to meet up with them one more time! (This time, we exchanged
email addresses, figuring that Argentina's a bit bigger than CA.) One
of the more hilar moments of the night was when Darren asked me how
Teddy and I met. Which is definitely a question you only pose to
couples. If you're talking to friends, you ask "Where do you guys know
each other from?" But for couples, you ask where they met. So, I
figured it was a good time to finally break the news that we weren't a
couple. We had never said we were, but they just assumed and we
eventually felt awk being like "BTW, we are NOT a couple." Though they
were both surprised, they then said something to the effect of "We were
wondering about that. We were saying that you guys never touch or say
affectionate things to each other. We figured we just must always catch
you guys in a fight or something." Haha. We loved it. After a few
mojitos, it was time to go back, and we had to say goodbye. Though who
knows, we'll probs see them tmrw.

We woke up early this morning, showered, and got a really good typico
breakfast. We just made the bus to Rivas, which was about an hour and a
half away. Here, we took a quick taxi to San Jorge, where we caught the
hour long ferry to the Isla de Ometepe. (All the legs of our trip were
about $1.) Ometepe is an island formed by two giant and beautiful
volcanoes rising out of Lake Nicaragua (the 10th largest body of fresh
water in the world.) The whole island has a population of about 35,000
people and is actually way bigger than we imagined. It is the first
thing Teddy decided he wanted to visit when we started planning the
trip, and we've been looking forward to it ever since. We arrived in
kind of a crappy town in Ometepe and took another 2-hour bus to Santo
Domingo, the nicest and most popular beach. After getting off the bus,
we were stoked to see that the hotel we had wanted to stay at was right
in front of us. What luck! Our hotel is the Hospedaje Buen Vista ($6
each with a private bathroom), and it's got a nice sitting area
overlooking the lake with hammocks and, of course, rocking chairs. It's
right on the beach and just has a very relaxed vibe. Now that we had
checked hotel off our list, it was time for food.

We went next door to a little comedor and sat down. Our waitress was
ridiculously friendly and we immediately felt at home. Teddy had an
extended convo (in espanol!) with a guy on the boat about what the best
food to get on the island was, and he had said fish. So we both went
with the fried fish and gallo pinto (rice and beans). We also ordered a
litro of beer to go along with it. Though it took about an hour, the
fish was incredible. It came out whole, with the head and everything,
and was perfectly cooked and delicious. Our waitress, Julia, told us
that we ate like Nicas because the fish was totally clean when we were
done with it - not a speck of meat on it. We were proud. Julia then
came and sat with us, and we all chatted in Spanish for a while. Then
she called over her friend, Gabriel, who also sat and talked for about
another hour. We even talked politics! Don't tell anybody this, but
Teddy and I actually high-fived when we were done. That's how psyched
we were about our Spanish. We are dorks. Tomorrow, Gabriel is going to
be our guide and take us on a tour of a local organic coffee farm. Then
on Friday, we are going to climb the Volcan Maderas. It is the smaller
of the two volcanoes, but we've heard it's a much better hike. We think
we even get to swim in a crater lake at the top! And see monkeys!
Everyone here has been incredibly friendly, and they all seem to love
the word "perfectamente." They use it in place of "si" and to describe
almost everything. And that's exactly how we feel here. Perfectamente!

PS. Internet's pretty expensive here (there are only 100 people that
live in Santo Domingo and only two public computers), so we might not
be blogging much. But in amazing blog news, pix are back up and
running! Yay! Check em out on previous entries!
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