Hiking around the Mount Fitz Roy area
Trip Start
Jan 20, 2005
1
7
14
Trip End
Feb 20, 2005

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On February 2nd we got on our bus to head north to El Chalten, a small city that was built around the northwest end of the Hielo Sur (one of the largest glacier fields) to start our hike around Mt. Fitz Roy. Theo had been to this area twice before, bussing the 5 or 6 hour dusty road over the Argentinian plains. The Lonely (Lying) Planet book said that this road was in part paved now. Well, a few pieces were but the rest was a bumpy gravel road! This cut the trip by perhaps an hour.
We arrived to very sunny weather, and the notorious winds of El Chalten were also missing. Mt. Fitz Roy was looming and looking grand over the town (behind some hills) without any clouds in sight. We hiked up the standard trail to Campimento Poincenot ground at the base of Mt. Fitz Roy. We thought we might be able to make it into the Lago Electrico area, but the hot weather was frying us and making our feet blister up pretty badly again, and our late start at 1:30pm wasnīt helping either. Around 5pm, after setting up our tent under some trees (complete with giant caterpillars that made Nadine scream over and over!)
we decided to quickly run up the Laguna de Los Tres viewpoint underneath Mt. Fitz Roy. The trail leads over a few creeks and a major river, then up through lenga trees, and finally onto open rocky switchbacking traverses. The views were astounding, and at this point there was still not a major cloud in the sky, or even a breath of wind. Even at this late hour, another group was visibly making an evening assault on a nearby smaller mountain. We passed a couple who were carrying skis, and had apparently hiked up and then skied down one of the glaciers in the area. Theo kept shaking his head because when he was here before he never had views like this, as the clouds had been socking in the peaks.
We retreated, and made a big late dinner complete with decadent heavy sausage (we found sausage in El Calafate that could keep up to temperatures of 18 degrees celsius, a hikerīs dream)! The night was very warm and for once we were not wearing toques or fleece to sleep. The next morning we awoke to the famous red sunrise images that Mt. Fitz Roy can get (thanks to Nadine having to pee at 6:40 am!)
and saw two eagle-like birds in the field by our tent. After breakfast an hour or so later, we proceeded down valley towards the Hielo Peidras Blanco glacier. The views were once again amazing, and we spent time lounging in front of the glacier and enjoying the afternoon. Nadine tried to lift an iceberg out of the lake to eat a bit but the pieces were to big! Returning to camp we packed up and hiked past Lagunas Madre and Hiega towards our next destination -- Campimento De Agostino and Cerro Torre. The trail was very dusty, and the day just as hot as yesterday. We arrived to see that Cerro Torre, looming over the camp ground, was also entirely clear of clouds. To see both Mt. Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre clear in one trip... is not normal or at least darn good luck! We had most amazing weather (although a little too hot for us Calgarians!) to see the sites around the Mt. Fitz Roy area!
But by the next morning the weather had started to sock in. The glacier below Cerro Torre was even in the fog. We decided to make an early retreat back to El Chalten and attempt to bus back to El Calafate a day earlier. It was a hot windy (and of course, very dusty) day as we dragged ourselves into El Chalten. The people at the hostel were nice enough to book our hotel in Calafate for one night earlier, and change our bus reservation for the current day. We found some showers at the camping place across the street. Nadine and Theo sucked down some amazing lemon meringue pie at the hostel. After finding more Crazy Glue (La Gotita) for our next upcoming hike (works wonders for holding down blister pads for our sweaty feet)we were in great shape to hit the local microbrewery. Their beer was ok (after 2 each!), but their empanadas were better.
The bus ride back showed some great pink and purple clouds. A day rest in El Calafate (where we did find some El Bolson beer, our new favourite is Negra Extra XXX, 8% alcohol!!) and off to Torres del Paine in Chile for more hiking!
We arrived to very sunny weather, and the notorious winds of El Chalten were also missing. Mt. Fitz Roy was looming and looking grand over the town (behind some hills) without any clouds in sight. We hiked up the standard trail to Campimento Poincenot ground at the base of Mt. Fitz Roy. We thought we might be able to make it into the Lago Electrico area, but the hot weather was frying us and making our feet blister up pretty badly again, and our late start at 1:30pm wasnīt helping either. Around 5pm, after setting up our tent under some trees (complete with giant caterpillars that made Nadine scream over and over!)

we decided to quickly run up the Laguna de Los Tres viewpoint underneath Mt. Fitz Roy. The trail leads over a few creeks and a major river, then up through lenga trees, and finally onto open rocky switchbacking traverses. The views were astounding, and at this point there was still not a major cloud in the sky, or even a breath of wind. Even at this late hour, another group was visibly making an evening assault on a nearby smaller mountain. We passed a couple who were carrying skis, and had apparently hiked up and then skied down one of the glaciers in the area. Theo kept shaking his head because when he was here before he never had views like this, as the clouds had been socking in the peaks.
We retreated, and made a big late dinner complete with decadent heavy sausage (we found sausage in El Calafate that could keep up to temperatures of 18 degrees celsius, a hikerīs dream)! The night was very warm and for once we were not wearing toques or fleece to sleep. The next morning we awoke to the famous red sunrise images that Mt. Fitz Roy can get (thanks to Nadine having to pee at 6:40 am!)
and saw two eagle-like birds in the field by our tent. After breakfast an hour or so later, we proceeded down valley towards the Hielo Peidras Blanco glacier. The views were once again amazing, and we spent time lounging in front of the glacier and enjoying the afternoon. Nadine tried to lift an iceberg out of the lake to eat a bit but the pieces were to big! Returning to camp we packed up and hiked past Lagunas Madre and Hiega towards our next destination -- Campimento De Agostino and Cerro Torre. The trail was very dusty, and the day just as hot as yesterday. We arrived to see that Cerro Torre, looming over the camp ground, was also entirely clear of clouds. To see both Mt. Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre clear in one trip... is not normal or at least darn good luck! We had most amazing weather (although a little too hot for us Calgarians!) to see the sites around the Mt. Fitz Roy area!But by the next morning the weather had started to sock in. The glacier below Cerro Torre was even in the fog. We decided to make an early retreat back to El Chalten and attempt to bus back to El Calafate a day earlier. It was a hot windy (and of course, very dusty) day as we dragged ourselves into El Chalten. The people at the hostel were nice enough to book our hotel in Calafate for one night earlier, and change our bus reservation for the current day. We found some showers at the camping place across the street. Nadine and Theo sucked down some amazing lemon meringue pie at the hostel. After finding more Crazy Glue (La Gotita) for our next upcoming hike (works wonders for holding down blister pads for our sweaty feet)we were in great shape to hit the local microbrewery. Their beer was ok (after 2 each!), but their empanadas were better.
The bus ride back showed some great pink and purple clouds. A day rest in El Calafate (where we did find some El Bolson beer, our new favourite is Negra Extra XXX, 8% alcohol!!) and off to Torres del Paine in Chile for more hiking!
