Coca leaves and high altitude
Trip Start
Aug 26, 2005
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28
126
Trip End
May 26, 2008
Tupiza,
Bolivia
Wednesday, April 19, 2006
I was a little apprehensive upon arriving in Bolivia. All the stories, the kidnappings, the drugs and underworld crime worried me a little so I had my bank cards seperated, my passport securely strapped to my torso. My valuables were deep within my padlocked backpack. Which weighs over 20 kilos, so goodluck to anyone that tries to pick it up and run off. They wouldnt get too far before buckling over, possibly with a broken spine.
After 8 months in Argentina with a short stint in Chile, Uruguay and Brasil it was time to head North and get some k´s under my belt, finally!
I crossed into Bolivia on foot from Argentinas northernmost town called La Quiaca. The North of Argentina is increadible dry. They receive no more than 100mm of rain a year. Falling in the summer months of Jan and Feb. The rest of the year remains dry and dusty.
Its lucky they dont get more rain as the majority of houses are made of mud and would simply wash away.
Crossing into into Bolivia on foot was a great experience. I had spent 7 months in Argentina and in a way was reluctant to leave a country that I had become so familiar and secure in but it was time to move on.
Argentina and Bolivia are separated by a small heavily polluted, garbage filled trickle of water that they call a river. On the Argentinian side of the bridge - a town called La Quiaca I got my exit stamp for Argentina. Then a mere 50 metre walk across the bridge and I was stamped into Bolivia. It couldnt have been any easier. Lucky i wasnt travelling the opposite direction as the line to enter Argentina was around 50 metres long. Not surprising as the border here is a huge smuggling point and there were loads of dodgy characters around. I didnt waste any time and found the bus terminal and bought a ticket to a town called Tupiza. Which is the starting point for the tours of the Uyuni salt flats.
I had an hour to kill before my bus so found a place across from the terminal and experienced my first Bolivian beer. Not bad, but I did manage to knock a full glass all over the place. Blame it on the altitude. A drunk Peruvian guy took a liking to me and pulled up a seat. After each swig of his litre beer, he asked my name and where i was from, then took another dwig and asked the same questions. It was mildly entertaining for the first 30 seconds but after that I told him to move to another table, eventually having to envoke the help of the bar staff to drag him away.
The bus to Tupiza was supposedly an easy 2 hour stint. But in the true South American way that I have become accustomed to, it took a little longer. The bus was meant to leave at 6:30pm. 6:30 came and went and there was no sign on loading the buss. Eventually at around 7, the driver showed up and started loading the bads. It was an absolute nightmare. First there were 3 buses all going to the same place. I had to firstly secure a seat on one, then fight my way through a huge angry line to get my pack onto the bus. I think halve the people on the bus were moving house, they had huge bags of random stuff, all screaming and crying about not being allowed on. Luckily my pack made it on and at 7:30, we were moving. But only for 10 minutes until we stopped again and an argument broke out. A Bolivian woman was kicked off for some reason. I was told later that she snuck on without paying.
3.5 hours later, I arrived in Tupiza. It was dark and cold and I quickly found a hostel and crashed.
I woke early the next morning to an amazing site. Huge mountains in every direction. Brilliant coloured rocks, red, yellow, green, even a shade of purple. Loads of stray dogs and brilliant narrow cobbled streets to explore.
Tupiza is a small, dusty little town, but has a great character and also some amazing scenery which completely makes up for loads of other stuff that it is totally lacking. For one - it doesnt have a bloody bank or a supermarket of any kind. There are stalls on every corner, where you do your shopping. Its the most inefficient system. One place will sell toothbrushes but no toothpaste, so you go the next corner, and they sell razor blades, but no razors, no wonder the country is in such strife. I did however stumble upon a very kool market. The koolest thing in Tupiza! Called the Black Markets. Selling coca leaves - a massive bag for 2 aussie bucks. After loading up on leaves, I strolled aroud the markets admiring the wealth of stuff for sale, from all the spices, fruit and vegetables you can imagine to cosmetics, prescription drugs and other random stuff.
I stayed i Tupiza for 2 Nights, enjoying the quiet narrow streets and amazing small ton atmosphere, attracting loads of attention from the locals.
After 2 nights I headed on an amazing 5 day Jeep tour to the famous Salt plains of Uyuni.
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Random Notes
1.00 Australia Dollar = 6.01848 Bolivia Bolivianos
