Making More Friends
Trip Start
Mar 18, 2009
1
6
11
Trip End
May 14, 2009
Nairobi,
Kenya
Friday, April 17, 2009
I made my way down to Nairobi yesterday to get advice from a few contacts, regarding the issues at the Center. After having lunch with a prominent lawyer, hopped on a cab to Anne's place where I had spent my first night in Kenya.
Theirs is an inter-tribal marriage. Anne is a Kikuyu while her husband is a Luo (Obama's grandfather was a Luo too). Ironically, the main fights during the post-election clashes of early 2008 were between the Luo and the Kikuyu. Anne admits that she needs a drink before she starts speaking about the tumultuous times
Nairobi
. "The situation was bad; roads blocked; supplies scarce." she says. "But what could we have done? All our investments are here..."After having a warm shower and a bacon-and-egg breakfast, I arrived at the city center. I couldn't believe my eyes! It was so well-developed; almost like Miami. (I know I have said this before) Decent roads, lush parks and stylish cafes... My driver friend Fred dropped me off at the T that the Kenyatta and Moi Avenues formed. First, I followed the Moi Avenue northwards. Then, made a wide u-turn and arrived at the Indian-style Jamia Mosque where the Friday services were being held. Walked further down south; passed by the space-station-like Kenyatta Conference Center, and arrived at the African-style House of Parliament, which was architecturally disappointing. The guards told me that the Parliament was on recess, but that I could listen in on the debate if I came back on Wednesday. Just like the way they do it in London...
Jomo Kenyatta's mausoleum, adjacent to the House of Parliament, was the size of a hut!
Ate at a South African pizza chain called Debonair's. Although I paid $20 for 2 small pizzas and a soda, their BBQ chicken pizza was quite good
Jamia Mosque
. Wonder why Pizza Hut and McDonald's don't exist here...Next, Fred the Driver dropped me off at the Turkish Embassy to the Northeast of Central Nairobi. Thought that a few more friends would not hurt. Celil Bey, the Third Counsel, was very welcoming. I told him about the situation that I had found myself in. He went as far as giving me advice regarding what could be done and reassured me that the Embassy would intervene in case of any trouble. Then, I asked him a few questions about himself. He had graduated from Bilkent University in Turkey and had taken the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Examination. "The routine is to first send you to a tough country like Kenya." he said. This young man in his mid-30s is hoping to be stationed in a city like Los Angeles next year. His wife is expecting a boy in a few months. I can imagine that they will want to leave this place faster, after they have their baby boy.
There were only about 5 Turks and 5 Kenyans working at the Embassy. I also met Isil Hanim, a lower-ranking representative who had sent me numerous helpful emails before my arrival in Kenya. The Ambassador did not have the time to meet with me.
The embassy estate was impressive
Kenyatta Conference Center
. 4-5 white villas situated in an expansive lawn.Met Anne at a stylish restaurant in Hurlingham called Blanco's. She had had drinks with her mates and was now waiting for me for dinner. On the other hand, her husband was having drinks with his own friends. Such a divide would be unacceptable for many families that I know. How liberal... Anne and I enjoyed a delicious steak dinner, some fruity wine and an intellectual conversation. I took the bill: 2,500 shillings. Had to get my credit card out of my boxers in order to cover this.
Anne was the top ranking middle-school student in the country who was discovered by an American tourist and taken to the States to attend Choat Academy.
Back at Anne's, we watched a short-documentary about slum-life in the neighboring shanty town of Kibera. Anne's sister who is attending second year at college joined us. I believe I have been occupying the bed that she usually sleeps in. Oops...
